2001 4cyl Interference Motor?
#11
I am considering a timing chain change now. I am wondering if the problem might be at the bottom end of the timing chain. The chain does move when the crank is turned so I know that it is not broken, but the key could be sheered off.
Is there anything else that needs to come off to get the timing chain cover off, other than the crank pulley? Like any of the accessories or their mounting brackets?
Can I see into the oil pan when the timing chain is removed? I don't really want to take my brand new oil out to inspect the lower end.
I saw in another thread how to change the timing chain, and in one of the posts I read to check if the pistons are all the way down/up, put a four equal length straws down the head to see where the pistons were in their stroke. I could do that and turn the motor by hand to see if any of the connecting rods, or the crank itself, are broken, correct?
Is there anything else that needs to come off to get the timing chain cover off, other than the crank pulley? Like any of the accessories or their mounting brackets?
Can I see into the oil pan when the timing chain is removed? I don't really want to take my brand new oil out to inspect the lower end.
I saw in another thread how to change the timing chain, and in one of the posts I read to check if the pistons are all the way down/up, put a four equal length straws down the head to see where the pistons were in their stroke. I could do that and turn the motor by hand to see if any of the connecting rods, or the crank itself, are broken, correct?
#12
what a compression test will tell you is if you have any problems internally. Lets say you have a loss of compression in one cylinder, well then its conceivable that youve bent valves or something.
Im not sure if you need to remove anything to get the cover off. There may be some accessory belts or some pulleys that may be in front, but ussually you may be able to jiggle the covers out.
If there was a connecting rod that broke youd probably know because it may have even tossed the rod out the oil pan, haha. But honestly just do the compression test first, that will tell you ALOT about the condition of this engine.
And no you cannot see into the oil pan with the chain off. The only way to really inspect the crank is to drop the pan. But i would wait on that as a last resort till you know more
Im not sure if you need to remove anything to get the cover off. There may be some accessory belts or some pulleys that may be in front, but ussually you may be able to jiggle the covers out.
If there was a connecting rod that broke youd probably know because it may have even tossed the rod out the oil pan, haha. But honestly just do the compression test first, that will tell you ALOT about the condition of this engine.
And no you cannot see into the oil pan with the chain off. The only way to really inspect the crank is to drop the pan. But i would wait on that as a last resort till you know more
#13
Well, I pulled off the valve cover, the wheel, and the accessory belt. Then aligned the notch in the crank pulley, then checked the location of the cam gears. They were right were they are suppose to be. It makes me think that the timing chain is okay. I also think since the chain is correct, that I don't have any bent valves. Is that correct?
I'll try the compression test before I go any further into disassembly.
I'll try the compression test before I go any further into disassembly.
#14
if the timing looks good then i doubt the starting problem has anything to do with the belt. There may be something smaller of a problem here then you think. You may want to start with checking the basics of an engine, such as the fluid levels, any ignition components (spark, coil packs, starter, alt.) and fuel sytem (fuel pump, ect.)
#15
I pulled the belt because I was planning on pulling the timing chain. I found that the chain was fine, I don't think I'll replace it. I have changed the plugs a wires, have not checked the coils, the batt. read 12.11v, and I can hear the fuel pump kick on with the key(could it not be putting out enough pressure?).
When I turn it over it does sound funny, but I have not heard this car turn over correctly before. Maybe I could head down to the local Wal-mart and cruise the parking lot looking for a similar car and wait until someone comes by and starts it for me.
When I turn it over it does sound funny, but I have not heard this car turn over correctly before. Maybe I could head down to the local Wal-mart and cruise the parking lot looking for a similar car and wait until someone comes by and starts it for me.
#16
Well, I don't have good news. I did a compression test and from the passenger side to the drivers side I got 0 , 95 , 80 , and 135 psi. I did the one on the pass. side 5 times. I did an approx. average for the other three with 3 tries. The valve cover is not tightened down and the belt isn't on, but that won't effect the compression.
I got a code reader too and I got P0732 , P0733 , and P0734 gear 2, 3, and 4 ratio incorrect. I don't think that is linked to the compression.
I got a code reader too and I got P0732 , P0733 , and P0734 gear 2, 3, and 4 ratio incorrect. I don't think that is linked to the compression.
#20
yea if those are the correct #'s then they may have ran it without oil like they said and blew the thing up, and then probably tried to add oil in it and start it but couldnt. So that could be why you found 3/4 full of oil