92 SL2 HARD STARTING
#1
If my 1992 SL2 has been sitting for a few days, it always starts right up. However, if I try to start it after using it, still warm or hours later, it has to turn over for 20-30 seconds, and when it finally starts to run, it takes a few seconds for the RPM to come up, acting as though it had been flooded and needs to clear out the excess fuel. Once started, it runs great. It has about 180,000 miles and has been acting this way for over 10,000 miles. Any ideas or similar problems?? (I have replaced plugs, wires, and coils.)
#2
Ever replace ECTS (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor)? If original is still in there, it has almost certainly failed. Replace with Saturn brass-tipped replacement. Also replace connector (trust me). Saturn only part....
ECTS tends to fail and sends signal to PCM that engine coolant is cold -- always...cold.... PCM responds by making air/fuel mix too rich (like a choke on an older carb'd engine). If the engine is actually already warm, however, the mix is too rich & doesn't want to fire.
Cranking and cranking ends up "flooding" the engine.....
Give it a try....and REPLACE THE CONNECTOR
Please post resolution
Derf
ECTS tends to fail and sends signal to PCM that engine coolant is cold -- always...cold.... PCM responds by making air/fuel mix too rich (like a choke on an older carb'd engine). If the engine is actually already warm, however, the mix is too rich & doesn't want to fire.
Cranking and cranking ends up "flooding" the engine.....
Give it a try....and REPLACE THE CONNECTOR
Please post resolution
Derf
#4
I replaced the ECTS and connector (which was purchased at a Saturn dealer rather than after market). At least the temperature guage works now....but the problem continues. In fact, it seems to be getting worse. When it does start, there is a strong exhaust smell, like from a flooded engine, and when driving, if I lift my foot off of the gas pedal, the engine bucks as though it is killing (car is stick shift).The CES light has been on for awhile, so I will have to check the codes. I think either some sensor is bad or the fuel injectors are failing.
#5
Now that ECTS is out of the way and PCMis getting correct temp info...
Get the codes read at autozone and post them -- we'll help you sort it out
1) A good throttle body cleaning wouldn't hurt. Be sure to use Throttle body cleaner -- your average carb cleaner will dissolve the internal coating of your Satty's throttle body.
2)Ever clean or replace your EGR valve? Sounds like gummed up/sticking EGR may be contributing to all of this. Problems tend to show up on accel/decel.
If you've never cleaned it and you burn as much oil as the rest of us, I'm pretty confident that when you remove and inspect it will be coated with carbon buildup and the pintle will not be moving freely.
Be sure to clean the EGR itself and the ports where it attaches to the engine.
Derf
Get the codes read at autozone and post them -- we'll help you sort it out
1) A good throttle body cleaning wouldn't hurt. Be sure to use Throttle body cleaner -- your average carb cleaner will dissolve the internal coating of your Satty's throttle body.
2)Ever clean or replace your EGR valve? Sounds like gummed up/sticking EGR may be contributing to all of this. Problems tend to show up on accel/decel.
If you've never cleaned it and you burn as much oil as the rest of us, I'm pretty confident that when you remove and inspect it will be coated with carbon buildup and the pintle will not be moving freely.
Be sure to clean the EGR itself and the ports where it attaches to the engine.
Derf
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