98 Saturn sc2 is wifes car we bought new, its always been garaged, never had any major work done. replaced alternator 5-6 years ago. just replaced 3 yr old battery due to its death. while installing new battery and I heard clicks from door (actuator)?


once battery installed and after starting car I tried to activate lock/unlock buttons on both L&R doors. I got no lock/unlock action but did get one click from relay. pulled all three door lock relays 2 in cab and one under hood. all three original. after checking numbers to see if they are the same I switched location and tried again. Still non normal operation and all three click once when installed in unlock slot in cab and when buttons pushed on either door


the unlock button on drivers door is really hard to push in and unlock feels like nothing behind it, pass door switch has normal feel in L/UL positions


after fiddling with relays and lock/unlock buttons I was able to get them to work once or twice to lock & unlock, but they acted weak. also when I pushed lock button on either door you could see the manual tab move slightly toward the lock position, but not fully lock. this does not happen every time button is pushed but intermittently


with key off and unlock button pushed I hear click around outer door handle. I assume it is an actuator?


I don't have key fob here at home as wife took her keys & fob with her to work.
I haven't tested alternator to make sure it is charging but need to just to make sure elec draw isn't the cause for battery death.

looking for help in where to start looking first.
Thanks for any suggestion
Blagan

 

I don't really know what to tell you, but have you checked for a possible blown fuse?

 

I've always heard this power door lock "chatter" when replacing batteries in my S cars. There is an electrical explanation for it----just never bothered to think my way through it.

You said you switched around the relay positions to no real avail.

There is the possibility that one or more of the relays might have been damaged.
I'm looking at a generic 96-99 wiring diagram for the power door locks and I only see the two relays in the IPJB---nothing under the hood but a 20A LOCKS fuse. Make sure that that fuse is not damaged.

Testing operation with the fob is critical since it of course bypasses the switches and relays and directly sends a signal to the door lock motor. Let us know the results of the fob test

EDIT: Wrong. The Relays and the switches are of course still in the circuit. DUH. Sorry

 

anyone know if any parts store carry the remote control door lock(RKE) module?


checking the electrical service manual 132-11 RKE/security system
from symptom table

lock/unlock functions on transmitter & interior sw inoperative and deck lid OK


procedure between 3-4 states to check CKT 550A for open between IPJB and left body ground splice pack, if OK replace remote control door lock module. I am assuming splice pack is OK, so
I thought changing the module might help, key fob and door buttons are all inoperative,


checked fuse and 2 relays in cab, sorry the one (relay) in eng compartment I thought was door locks is actually the daytime running lights (DRL).
I have called all parts suppliers but none carry the remote control door lock module that is located behind R quarter trim panel. is this a dealer only item??
Thanks

 

geez you have a service manual? That makes this easier. Theoretically.

21024608
http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/21024608.html

only one i found

And there's nothing wrong w a junkyard one in my opinion....as long as the unit has been rained on. Rube lives somewhat near a great saturn friendly junkyard, he might be able to hook you up with one at a fair price.

or Hoseppi -- I can't remember if he still has 2nd gen coupes in his inventory.
Actually I didn't look up the years they used this exact module so your pickings may be broader than just 2nd gen.

I'd PM them both.

Hope this helps.

 

Guys,
thanks much for the help & advice. Bought this car for my wife new in 98 and other than a couple batteries, sets of tires, alternator and belts I haven't done much to it since new. I did buy the set of multiple manuals when I bought the car, for $49.00 figured I couldn't go wrong for all you get.


apparently the wife claims she told me about the lock issue some time ago, but she is always talking, and I must admit I am not always listening. it wasn't till I changed her battery that I became aware of the problem.
I apologize starting a second thread, I thought I was adding to this one.
Maybe moderator can delete it for me.


there is a wrench & go J-yard here locally I thought I would dig in and locate the one in wifes car then take tools needed and go get one and see if that helps and then look for new one. parts guy stated any 91-99 S series would be a match.
again thanks for all your help
Bruce

 

Bruce, if you can post a picture of what it looks like and tell me where the heck to find it on the car, I'll be happy to grab you one the next time I go to Pull-A-Part. Lemme know.

 

Blagan,
On electrical problems the first thing that I do is get out a volt meter and start measuring voltages. The lack of the proper volts some where generally indicates what it is that I am looking for. Watching things move or listening to them tells me little more than they did not work, not why.
Todays car including all Saturns are full of electronics and wiring and time does not do well with connections, plugs and ground points. And considering all the Plastic Saturns used, it might have made good press when new, but years later the only thing the stuff does not do is rust. I am constantly fighting problems as the plastic continues to deteriorate. If a solenoid is going to pull, it needs 12 VDC at the connector where it plugs in and a good ground. Both of those things need to be verified as to whether they are there or not. Here in AZ they must have sold a ton of them and I am still seeing S cars floating around but one of the biggest problems that I personally know about is power window failures and moon roof failures due to heat affecting plastic and/or parts.
You asked for a place to start, start with a meter and find out whether the power to the solenoid is correct and if not? Start looking for reasons why. Do not spin your wheels looking for modules to replace until a module is needed.

 

blagan....stop in the new member forum and introduce yourself. After that open the USER CP, and add your first name, location, and car to your signature. You'll find the USER CP at the top of most pages. We'd like to have you around.


But Remember

 

On a car that is a bit long in tooth I would start looking for corroded connectors, bad grounds and tight bolts or anything that looks like electricity would have a hard time getting through it before I spent money and time on modules.