hey guys need ur help.....i have 98 sl2 w only 75k!

when i drive the car and make long or short stops, usually when the car is hot, it has a problem restarting. it doesnt happen first time i start it from the night before only when it gets warm or hot right now.

it either turns over but no cigar or a total dead clicking sound happens when i turn the key. i let it cool down and then it will start again like a new car....!

never dies on the road, drives fine, tunedup last year.
just changed TPS, throttle pos. sensor last week cuz the code came up, no check engine light. i guess the tps ddnt help!....some one said cps or ect??

i heard if its cps it would only happen in drive or when car is drivin if cps? my car is fine when it gets started and drives, does that mean it still could be it?

do u knw code numbers and locations and r&r for these parts???
i think i changed the ect 30k ago w saturn part oem b/c of this, dont knw for sure, never kept records either did ex husband.lol.

let me know? any suggestions helpful.THANK YOU

 

The total dead with clicking is a battery/ battery connection(s)/Starter problem most likely. If it is related to the engine turns and still does not start it kinda points at some form of a battery connection problem with a lot of corrosion some where that many wires go from.
In general in my opinion the two symptoms are not related. If they are, it is a common power problem and if so that would have to be a corrosion related battery cable problem some where.
I would think anyway.

 

I would say battery aswell, if ya hit it and it clicks... bad connection or battery is just old and needs replaced.

if its turning over but not starting means no spark so I would say coil paks but..... usually when they quit thats it they don't cool off n start working again but I belive most auto parts stores could test the coil paks.

If it's computer related.... I haven't a clue...

 

i dont think its the battery/alt/starter. they were all checkd out at autozone and passed.
also, like i said the car starts half the time i turn the key and drives fine, sometimes it doesnt start for a bit and i have to wait till it cool downs and it starts.

why wouldnt it be ect or cps sensor???

thanks.

 

ects and its annoying that you leave out details like dead click in half your posts making it difficult to give you sound advice.

JoshKAva, turning over but not starting does not necessarily mean no spark

 

hey guys, had my boyfriend put in a autozone lifetime new ects b4 the cps for my 98 sl2.....thanks to you guys that mentioned it,even tho. it does not come up on the obd2 scan.....

like i said the ects was changed like 30k ago! 6-7 years ago, dads pretty sure, guess it was a crappy part cuz since we put it in it has not reoccurred but only drivin 2-3 times a day and we let the car get hot, on and off, so far so good......but i guess well know for sure when we take it out longer than 5miles or so....went back to autozone for the obd2 scan and nothing came up, thot mayb the cps would.....FYI: I DID NOT change the CONNECTOR ECTS, the connector inside looked good and corrosion free with orange oring.

y did saturn/gm not have an important starting sensor like ects not come up on a SCAN????????aaaaaaaaargggh

anyway......forgot to mention that for a while now i realized that were gettin a hi pitch/whistlin soft not loud sound when drivin or idlin the car when it warms up, dont know where its comin from........fan or belt????????

also
old ECTS CONNector, where the two wires went into it a 90degree angle, HAD gooey gluearound the wires goin into the connector (factory glue?) and moved easliy, dont know what it was???should i back tape that up????

OLD ECTS both ends were fine, was expectin to see crack to dirt buildup but we thot it was a waste of money to replace since it looked fine, even the 2 connector prongs IN THE nipple were not corrorded....but so far its been startin up between stops.....

THANKS GUYS!!!!!

 

hey guys, well droveit around today in new york....and it didnt start....aaaarrrrggghhhhh

i am wonder if its that piggy connector now, if u read about my previous post there was a meltin glue around where the wires went into the connector, but inside the connector was clean.

i dont have a resistent meter but will test the connector bc its 45 buks for fault......the other thing i can change is the cps!!!!but it doesnt come up on a scan and should

so frustrated!!! should i be checkin ANY FUSES AND WHERE???

THANKS
any suggestions would help

 

one suggestion would be to stop posting the same update to your issue in multiple threads. I deleted the other one.

what are the symptoms of your no start now? Dead click? Crank but doesn't fire?
Cranks and fires but won't run? Is the problem only when cold? only when hot?

We can't see your car and can't read your mind

 

CPS = Computor, expensive a mystery piece and a source of confusion. For some reason a part that must fix things if it is replaced. A piece that largly is reliable if left alone where it lives, is some times coded to work witht he car it came from and because it looks like 10 others that came from 10 different cars must be interchangable.
Where as a fuse can be bought with 4 others in a package for under $2.00, looks like all others, is designed to be replaced and you can throw them in a pocket some where and they will rattle around undamged for years.
And they reason they look like each other is they can be interchanged. Like a bobby pin.
If a wiring connector looks bad it probably is bad. Some one screwed around with an inefective repair because it was broken.
The inability to use a $2.00 meter and know how is legendary, I do not fault the lack of knowledge. You are not alone. But in DIY on a highly complex electronic controlled car, requires trouble shooting and learning how and spending $2.00 at harbor freight to buy one and then finding out if the $200.00 or more part actually needs to be replaced. Instead of listening to some one recommend the most expensive part to replace because they have no clue and some one is looking for an answer.
It used to be that a meter would cost more than the car it was used on, now they are cheaper than a fuse that is probably the problem.
Buy a manual, not only does it tell how things work, but in many cases give a little information on how to determine when they don't.

 

hey guys....you wont belive what my boyfriend found out....he was told the autozone terminal only alt/battery tests are garbage! and got the voltimeter test done, standing battery test yield 12.4 which were told was fine, alt. on load , wipers/ac/radio/day time lites were 13.15 give or take 5 points......they wanted to see higher like 14.......isthat ok for our cars???if so that leaves that out.

anyway, i got more info so you guys can have a better read. when it gets stuck its usually after 3/5 stops at 20 mins ea. or total drivin time between gettin stuck is about 40mins....and then u go to start it and clickin happens you wait for it to cool down about 5-ten minutes and it will weakly start.

that bein said, i think i wrote b4 that the starts sounds weak since this problem started as opposed to b4 when they had a good crankin start, thats y i thought it was cps. were goin towards changing the starter?????

what do you think????i alrady changed ects, connecter piggy tail is fine b/c we get a good coolant gauge proper readin and when i pulled it the connector was fine.....wasted money on the ects.

so this leaves me with cps still, which i have heard only is fault when your drivin and at idle or park and it stalls plus it doesnt show up on obd2....so i am thinkn it was the starter all they time???? like to hear what you guys think???? or if u have any other questions.....

also, do u recommend duralast starter 120$ for these cars,life time warranty, delcor is who rebuilds them.....also we got quote for genco for 120 starter and usa 100$ ....all for one year warranty.....want to go for reputable brand need it for at least 30-40k to last!

THANKS!!!!!GUYS