Additionally, if he replaced the ignition coils and the wires, he could have possibly hooked them back up such that the firing order of the cylinders is wrong..though I'm not sure the car would run at all if this was the case. Worth a check, though.

Correct firing order is 1-3-4-2, where Cyl 1 is the left most cyl while looking at the engine from the front bumper.

The other end of the plug wires should connect to the ignition coil towers (from left to right, again, while looking at the engine from the front bumper,) in the order 4-1-2-3.

Please confirm this is attached correctly, and get the codes read (per OA's suggestion), and we'll help you from there....

 

Oops -- replies crossed in cyberspace. Cam codes on an S car indicate issues with ignition, so coil and wire replacement were a good start. The lurching is definitely not normal.....

Has the ECTS been replaced? This will often lead to hard starting.

Still recommend checking the firing order....

 

Yeah -- without a readout from the computer, we're swinging at this pinata blindfolded


Derf gets the "+1" for the thought about the ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor)

If problems persist, my next thought would be CPS (crankshaft position sensor)

 

Well I replaced the sensors I mentioned before and everything was good...that day. The next day it was cutting out again. On Tuesday I replaced the CPS, MAP and seafoamed the motor. Of course both times I took off the neg/pos on the battery to work on the car and also to reset the codes in the computer. Today, it was cutting out again. I went out to go do some running around and I was sitting there letting the car idle a bit, getting the A/C to cool off the car. All of a sudden the engine died, cranked the motor and it started right up. It cut out a few other times driving the car around too.

I really don't know what else to do. The only 2 things left to replace that I can think of is the ignition module and the PCM, which the PCM is a long shot. Other than that the car is running better than it ever has. Idle is so smooth, it runs like it's brand new. I want to keep this car for a long time but this **** is pissin me off!

I'm lost........

 

I backscanned the thread quickly, so I may have missed it, but have you replaced the heavy cables running from the battery? Sometimes, these things break down internally, and can create all sorts of weird happenings .....

 

no I haven't, wouldn't that cause other issues with the car besides the ignition missing? right now I'm at a loss so I'll try anything.

Do u think the ignition module could be it? I have already tested it like the chiltons manual says but the test is only to put a test light on the 4 metal probes and turn the car over. of course I've never had any issues starting the car so that test passed with flying colors

 

are you still getting any cam codes?

did you check the firing order?

 

firing order is correct and no codes at all

 

Good to know....did the mechanic replace the entire coil assy or just the individual coil packs? If he replaced the entire assembly, the DIS module is included. If he replaced only the 2 coil packs, then DIS module is a possibility......

Also-- check the grounding of the coil packs -- they are grounded through the bolts that mount them into the block -- take these out and ensure there is clean metal to metal contact for good grounding.

 

I work on my cars, no mechanic has touched my cars unless it's something I absolutely cannot figure out.

I replaced one coil, I tested both original coils and only one of them was bad. I have not changed the ignition module (DIS module, I guess that's what ur talking about). I did test it but it's a very basic test and doesn't tell anyone a whole lot. The grounding of the coils is good.