How To: S-Series Passenger Side Mirror Replacement - SC1 SC2 1997-2002
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How To: S-Series Passenger Side Mirror Replacement - SC1 SC2 1997-2002
I have a little time today, so I guess I can throw this up. My 2002 SC2 had a disagreement with something in it's past and a broken passenger mirror was the consequence of it. Someone tried repairing it with some sort of adhesive, which looks really sexy. I, however, wanted to repair it correctly.
Fortunately, the repair was pretty straight forward. If you would like a video of what I did, watch this. My mirror is power adjusted, manual adjustment mirror covers may be different.
The mirror is attached by three 10mm nuts. In my case the mirror was only attached by one nut and the adhesive around its edge. Disconnecting the power is made easy by a quick connection that just unplugs. The mirror is now free.
For my own repair, I just needed the black mounting plate, since the stud mountings on the original plate broke. The new mirror also came with new studs, which I used since the original studs were rusty. NOTE: I had to use the old nuts, so keep them just in case your replacement mirror doesn't come with them.
The mounting plate is attached to the mirror housing using three Phillips screws. The power cable is routed through a rubber grommet which I reused on the new part. Swapping the mounting plate was easy and the mirror fit onto the new part exactly like the old one. There was also a new foam piece that came with the new mirror which I used.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. I tightened all screws and nuts so that they were hand-tight. No sense of over stressing plastic pieces. Remember to reconnect the power cable to the mirror before buttoning everything back up. This job took about 10 minutes with some basic tools: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, ratchet set. The mirror was about $35 purchased from Amazon.
Fortunately, the repair was pretty straight forward. If you would like a video of what I did, watch this. My mirror is power adjusted, manual adjustment mirror covers may be different.
The mirror is attached by three 10mm nuts. In my case the mirror was only attached by one nut and the adhesive around its edge. Disconnecting the power is made easy by a quick connection that just unplugs. The mirror is now free.
For my own repair, I just needed the black mounting plate, since the stud mountings on the original plate broke. The new mirror also came with new studs, which I used since the original studs were rusty. NOTE: I had to use the old nuts, so keep them just in case your replacement mirror doesn't come with them.
The mounting plate is attached to the mirror housing using three Phillips screws. The power cable is routed through a rubber grommet which I reused on the new part. Swapping the mounting plate was easy and the mirror fit onto the new part exactly like the old one. There was also a new foam piece that came with the new mirror which I used.
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. I tightened all screws and nuts so that they were hand-tight. No sense of over stressing plastic pieces. Remember to reconnect the power cable to the mirror before buttoning everything back up. This job took about 10 minutes with some basic tools: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, ratchet set. The mirror was about $35 purchased from Amazon.
Last edited by derf; 05-25-2015 at 02:24 AM.
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