Key fob works, All door swtiches do not.
#1
Key fob works, All door swtiches do not.
My wife came home in her 2004 Ion2 Sedan yesterday and informed me that the windows did not work anymore.
After further investigation, all the door switches on all the doors are not working, meaning the windows, locks and mirror controls ceased to work. The car will lock and unlock using the key fob, and will lock when the car is put into gear, etc.
At first I tried the fuses on the windows to see if that worked, but alas, the fuse seems to be working just fine. It's a 30amp fuse, so I had to grab one from the Engine Block Fuse box (The power steering fuse was also a 30) and vice-versa. My multimeter shows it's doing it's job.
I'm now under the impression it's either a different fuse that controls more than I know about, or it's a harness somewhere. I don't really know.
The warranty had expired (with no option for an extended warranty from either GM or a 3rd party, which they sometimes do) and we would prefer to not take the car to a dealer. Being involved in the Big 3 myself, I'm one of the many now unemployed Michigan masses, and money is tight. I'm pretty handy, but I'm no service tech.
Any thoughts or ideas on the subject would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
After further investigation, all the door switches on all the doors are not working, meaning the windows, locks and mirror controls ceased to work. The car will lock and unlock using the key fob, and will lock when the car is put into gear, etc.
At first I tried the fuses on the windows to see if that worked, but alas, the fuse seems to be working just fine. It's a 30amp fuse, so I had to grab one from the Engine Block Fuse box (The power steering fuse was also a 30) and vice-versa. My multimeter shows it's doing it's job.
I'm now under the impression it's either a different fuse that controls more than I know about, or it's a harness somewhere. I don't really know.
The warranty had expired (with no option for an extended warranty from either GM or a 3rd party, which they sometimes do) and we would prefer to not take the car to a dealer. Being involved in the Big 3 myself, I'm one of the many now unemployed Michigan masses, and money is tight. I'm pretty handy, but I'm no service tech.
Any thoughts or ideas on the subject would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#4
RJ's right about this -- actually there are three different fuses at work here. All three are located on the Instrument Panel Fuse Block (I/P FB). The one you are looking for is usually identified as BODY, and I think its a 10amp fuse ....
#6
Thanks for the tips! I am going to try this tomorrow and see what works.
I'm wonder about RJ's comment. Could the fuse be blown because we are running the AC Max setting on full blast here in Michigan the last week or 2? Apart from the crummy radio, the car has been really good and I haven't seen any signs of immenent failure in the electrical department.
I'm wonder about RJ's comment. Could the fuse be blown because we are running the AC Max setting on full blast here in Michigan the last week or 2? Apart from the crummy radio, the car has been really good and I haven't seen any signs of immenent failure in the electrical department.
#10
If the doors lock and unlock with the keyfob - there's no reason to check/test the relays because they have to work properly before the keyfob will do its job. The orange wire coming from the BODY fuse on the I/P JB is common to both switches, and provides the +12v to the interior door lock switches. Verify that this wire has voltage, or trace it back to the Juncton Block