Po 341 & po 410
#21
Parts is parts, and when will they dissappear
You can search for bushings and then buy them over and over if you like, or you can replace the shifter cables that have streched that cause the bushing to break in the first place.
Shifter cable .... get the good ones from the dealer, or the crap ones that dorman makes, if they still make them.
Shifter cable .... get the good ones from the dealer, or the crap ones that dorman makes, if they still make them.
While an answer of this nature may be very true I wonder when it might stop being a valid answer. I don't know what if any, the latest rules might be that require a company to continue being able to supply parts but to the best of my knowledge it used to be something like 7 years.
That is if going out of business such as many have in the past, 7 years was an obligation that was required.
Saturn as a company is gone along with a few other GM based cars and a multitude of other models. So for the Saturn unique only parts, in reality if you can find a dealer that can order Saturn parts, how long will or can they and are they going to be available.
Such as these shifter cables, a part that is a maintainence item. While owning a Saturn that is in good enough shape to enjoy and had an offer from a drive by today to buy ( and I have no clue why but not the first time and the person looked a bit ticked when I told him 12 grand if he wanted to buy it, I figured that was what I was going to have to spend to replace it with another nice ride ) the fact is I also own and maintain and restore a fleet of AMC cars. A company that went out of business in 1988 and then only made Jeeps and a 4 wheel drive version of the car along with a number of Renault based cars, if it were not for Chrysler who at the time carried Jeep parts and after market suppliers along with collectors who stared reproducing AMC unique pieces or had private junk yard and active club networking, these cars would have been scrap iron a long time ago.
And are again becoming almost impossible to find bits and pieces for. Owners like my self who have been active and getting older are now dying. New people have never heard of the car and don't care and time and rust have diminished junkyard sources and reproduction people are going out of business. The engines are no longer being used by Jeep and truck racing has advanced to todays motors parts are really dissappearing.
Saturn was a short lived company, a short racing career and at this time to my knowledge, no Saturn unique reproparts and actually after the S cars, no real collectable Saturns manufactured that were not some form of Badge Engineered or Corporat Platform cars using parts sourced from a Variety of other GM cars that were not all that popular in the first place so they are either hard to find or gone.
When is it then that the phrase buy it from the dealer is going to be valid going to disappear and there is nothing functional left to fix things with?
Except some form of aftermarket parts, good bad or indifferent.
#22
I found out that the local Cadillac dealer has Saturn parts. They bought them up when the Saturn dealer closed, and can also order parts. They don't have the bushings. They say they have a cable assembly for $255.00. They say the bushings are part of the cables. The assembly has both cables. I saw the dorman bushings on line for about $17.00. Does this site have sponsors or is there a good online place I can trust to get the parts?
#23
if you want to trust in the fact that you are getting genuine new old OEM stock, the dealer is the place to go -- you pay a premium but just remember the last set of OEM cables lasted 175K.
Buy them before someone else does
Buy them before someone else does
#24
And the other side of this particular part is it has been reported that the aftermarket dorman part, the cables are not the correct length. Exactly what or how I do not know in that mine is an automatic and so far there has been no part failure that I could not purchase.
But! The reason your bushings failed is that over time the cables have stretched a problem apparently that has agravated the bushing failure. I have no idea how hard this assembly is to replace but it is apparently doable. The GM part for sure will work, at a price. The bushing will allow you to drive the car for awhile but the cable problem is not fixed, so the bushing will fail again. How long? dunno some one does apparently. The aftermarket piece will solve the immediate problem again at a price but it has a cable length problem so how long will it work? dunno. Can the cable length be adusted? Does anyone know? It is things of this nature that will keep these cars running over time, otherwise at some point in time it will be a financial decision to determine whether it is worth driving them any longer. That is a reality! I was offered $1200 for my 94 coupe this week end. A lot of money in hand for a 16 year old orphan car that runs and the A/C works. The real question becomes how long do I want to keep it if I have to spend $255.00 for a part + tax + install it my self If I am capable of it or pay some one $60.00 and hour to put it in, the going rate for a professional mechanic in this area, Plus repaint the Clear Coat which is going for the second time.
The financial decision is it is not worth it.
Which leaves how badly do I want to keep it. Of course in my case if I could make that decision logically I would not be about ready to install a new engine, transmission, do body work and repaint at show level, re-do the interior and drive a car that might possibly be worth about half of what I am going to spend to fix it up or just say the hell with it and by a new Datsun with the snowmobile transmission at about 20 Grand. The same type of technology that is used by many others such as the Vue and I think the Ion that has pretty much been determined the transmission will last long enough to get out of warrenty and then become a money pit from that point on.
A tough decision to make while listening to the dealer brag about the number of air bags the thing has or the GPS unit which can tell you to the inch, the point the car is when the transmission quit working.
But! The reason your bushings failed is that over time the cables have stretched a problem apparently that has agravated the bushing failure. I have no idea how hard this assembly is to replace but it is apparently doable. The GM part for sure will work, at a price. The bushing will allow you to drive the car for awhile but the cable problem is not fixed, so the bushing will fail again. How long? dunno some one does apparently. The aftermarket piece will solve the immediate problem again at a price but it has a cable length problem so how long will it work? dunno. Can the cable length be adusted? Does anyone know? It is things of this nature that will keep these cars running over time, otherwise at some point in time it will be a financial decision to determine whether it is worth driving them any longer. That is a reality! I was offered $1200 for my 94 coupe this week end. A lot of money in hand for a 16 year old orphan car that runs and the A/C works. The real question becomes how long do I want to keep it if I have to spend $255.00 for a part + tax + install it my self If I am capable of it or pay some one $60.00 and hour to put it in, the going rate for a professional mechanic in this area, Plus repaint the Clear Coat which is going for the second time.
The financial decision is it is not worth it.
Which leaves how badly do I want to keep it. Of course in my case if I could make that decision logically I would not be about ready to install a new engine, transmission, do body work and repaint at show level, re-do the interior and drive a car that might possibly be worth about half of what I am going to spend to fix it up or just say the hell with it and by a new Datsun with the snowmobile transmission at about 20 Grand. The same type of technology that is used by many others such as the Vue and I think the Ion that has pretty much been determined the transmission will last long enough to get out of warrenty and then become a money pit from that point on.
A tough decision to make while listening to the dealer brag about the number of air bags the thing has or the GPS unit which can tell you to the inch, the point the car is when the transmission quit working.
#25
hey now i am poor but crafty! had the same prob with my cable in the 97 sc2 at about? 195000? i made a bushing using elect tape around the nub? lol then stuck it in used a little more tape just so it fit nice and snug then rapped that **** in a good size bailling wire! tryed with out the tape and it felt bad? needs some kind of pad? started with a wire that was too thin it only lasted a week! did it up right with a good size and now the cars at 210000! still no probs with it at all! can send pics if u dont belive me! save the saturns!!
#27
So I bit the bullet and bought the cables from Saturn. It looks like an easy fix but it will have to wait until the weekend. They also have the secondary air injection valve and the air pump if I need them to fix the 410 code. That will be next. I'll be back.
#28
Well the weather and work kept me from getting done, but I finally did it. It was a good thing that I replaced the cables because the ends under the hood on the trans were also bad. That was good advice. It is easier with 2 people but you can do it alone, it just takes longer.
Now back to my other air pump problem. I'll be back.
Now back to my other air pump problem. I'll be back.
#29
Update- The dash light has been off for about 12 days now. I am cautiously saying the problem is fixed.
The cam sensor code ended up being the coil. I had replaced the plugs and wires but the light kept coming back so I replaced both coils and that fixed it.
The air pump code turned out to be my fault I think. There is what looks like a small vacuum line that goes from the intake to the secondary air valve. I found the problem by accident. I must have nicked it when I was working on the wires or plugs, and a piece was missing. So I cut it all the way through and used a piece of heat shrink over it. It was a cheap fix.
So the light is staying off and I can get it inspected this month. I think I am ready for brakes again, but I have done that before.
So thanks for all the help. I would have been lost in a pile of parts without it. I appreciate all the input.
The cam sensor code ended up being the coil. I had replaced the plugs and wires but the light kept coming back so I replaced both coils and that fixed it.
The air pump code turned out to be my fault I think. There is what looks like a small vacuum line that goes from the intake to the secondary air valve. I found the problem by accident. I must have nicked it when I was working on the wires or plugs, and a piece was missing. So I cut it all the way through and used a piece of heat shrink over it. It was a cheap fix.
So the light is staying off and I can get it inspected this month. I think I am ready for brakes again, but I have done that before.
So thanks for all the help. I would have been lost in a pile of parts without it. I appreciate all the input.
#30
A new update. I was ready to get inspected and the darn light came on again. This time it was oxygen sensors. It said bank one and bank two. I thought I could be slick so I canceled the codes and went for inspection. The only thing they check here in NJ is the emisions. But they use a computer that said that some of the systems were not ready to be tested and it failed. So much for being slick. Does anybody know where the oxygen sensors are? I guess I have to change them out. The code said slow response on both of them. I thought with a 4 cylinder it would only have 1. By the time I am done I will have a new car.