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Preventative maintenance after buying SC2 with 58k miles?

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  #1  
Old 07-20-2024, 04:54 PM
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Question Preventative maintenance after buying SC2 with 58k miles?

I found a gem on Marketplace, a 2002 SC2 with only 58k miles on it. The trailing arms are fine, body is solid, and I didn't even know it was running when I walked up to it, so it obviously runs well. The oil and the trans fluid are extremely clean and it doesn't seem to burn any oil.

After I buy it, is there anything I should do to make sure it reaches 400,000 miles? I once had a SC2 with only 126k on it die because the timing chain skipped and got loose, and I don't want to go through that again. Anything I should do to make sure this one doesn't skip? Is there any obvious preventative maintenance I'm missing?
 
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Old 07-22-2024, 08:19 AM
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Oil changes every 5K max w synthetic. Ask the previous owner what oil and what interval they used.

Do not redline it.
Check the frame where the lower control arms mount to the body in the front. Those spots on notorious for rusting out on s cars.

If that is the true mileage, the car has been doing a lot of sitting around. If it was driven every so often, that's fine. If not, not the best thing in the world but not the end of the world. Leaves it vulnerable to rodents chewing on the wires etc.

I assume the underhood cooling fan comes on when it should at around the 3/4 tick on the temperature gauge? If it wasn't coming on, you'd be overheating sitting in traffic. So does that work properly?

Can you post pictures, please? The body, with the hood up, and maybe a few underneath the front end so we may assess your new purchase?
 
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Old 07-22-2024, 05:56 PM
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AC was nice and cold and it ran at 1/4 tick, but not sure if the cooling fan works right, I'll make sure it does before I buy it. I already checked where the trailing arms mount and its fine, I'll hit it with some anti-rust paint. Not sure how often the oil was changed, or how often it was driven. it was owned by an elderly lady who could no longer drive it, and the guy who bought it can't fit in it very well so he's selling it as the second owner. The paint is in bad shape all around so it probably sat outside for quite some time, probably just needs a clear coat. I'll ask the current owner what he knows. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures because it is about an hour drive from my home and I have not bought it yet.

And by redlining it do you mean going past the redline or merely reaching it?
 
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Old 07-22-2024, 08:19 PM
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Oh I thought this was yours already.

Let's take a few steps back.

Is the SES lid on? Is the service wrench light on?
If it idles with the gauge at a quarter, it may need an ECTS or the thermostat may be stuck open or partially open.

The only way to really test that fan under the hood in action is to get The engine temperature up to around the 3/4 mark which usually can be done by letting it idle in place but it takes about half an hour if the cooling system is clean. You can always test the fan itself, but you cannot test whether the ECM is actually properly closing the fan relay. I suppose you could put a small resistance across the ECTS connector something like 300 ohms to simulate a high temperature reading.

You really need to put a decently capable scanner on the OBD2 port to see what's going on. A regular code reader can only pull the p codes which are emission and drivability codes. You are looking for b which are body codes U which I think are communication codes, etc. b codes and U codes do not turn on the service engine soon light. You can only read them through the port to find them.

Play with the security system. Make sure it lets you start the car after you trigger and reset the passlock system.

I could go on but I won't because I feel like crap right now.

In my experience, people that do not take care of the exterior of their vehicle also do not take care of things under the hood. I stayed this only with respect to gross negligence situations like this. They could have put a cover on the car if it was being stored outside. Like a $5 tarp.

Take it to a trusted independent mechanic, have him put it up on the lift, and get a good look at what you're getting. Look over the subframe very very carefully especially where the control arms attach. That often rusts from the inside out.

Does everything work in the vehicle? How about lights internal external? Does the remote keyless entry work? Does the exhaust sound even?

Okay I said I'd stop.

The fact that someone would sell a car because they don't fit in it very well waves the red flag of why the hell did they buy it in the first place? Basically, I think there's more to the story and the guy is not telling you what issue exists with the vehicle. But then again I'm pretty paranoid. Ask anyone on the forum.

 
  #5  
Old 07-22-2024, 08:45 PM
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No service lights at all, but I'll try and bring a better scanner before I buy it. This guy bought it thinking he could keep getting in and out of it easily every day, but he is older and bigger now than he was when he had one many years ago, so he want's something bigger than this for everyday driving from work and back. Everything works on the inside, and I'll double check everything before I buy it. I am not sure he will let me take it to a shop for inspection, or let it idle for a half-hour to see if the fan comes on. I do not know if it was idling at 1/4, I just know that's where it stayed during the test drive.
 
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Old 07-23-2024, 05:59 AM
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A car that old needs to have the frame inspected.
Are you in a state that requires safety inspections?

It's standard practice for a serious potential buyer to take it to their preferred mechanic for a quick visual / mechanical check.

If he will not allow it, flat out calmly ask him to his face everything the mechanic would find if you did take it to one?



The other thing that people do is clear the SES later before you go to take a drive. There are emission codes that require 50 mi of driving before deciding If everything is okay.

There is a PID for "of key cycles since DTCs cleared" which tells you how many times the key was turned from off to on or on to crank (One of those is not corect) since somebody went in with a scanner and erased the codes. Easiest way to screw a potential buyer.

If you don't mind sharing, how much does he asking for this vehicle?

Is this a 5 speed or automatic? What is it idle at (RPM))?
 
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