Aftermarket exhaust
#1
Aftermarket exhaust
I'm looking to get a cat-back exhaust but I can't seem to find any made for my Saturn. I was wondering if anyone knows where I can find some specifically for a 1998 Saturn SC2. And if not would one for a Honda fit on it?
#4
At one time a number of outfits sold catbacks for S-cars, those days are over. I always felt it was a person was better off having a local build a system. Anything over 2 and a 1/4 inch is a power loss to you. Fact I think you'd be better off with a 2 inch cat back and what ever size out muffler you want
Last edited by sw2cam; 11-26-2011 at 07:41 PM.
#6
I actually think OBX Still has a catback out for the car. I saw it a few times when I needed a new gasket for the flange.
Heres a link
Honestly, I like mine the way I did it, picked up the OBX Header and ran the rest 2" through a magnaflo resonator and turbo muffler (3" out). It has a unique sound to it, compared to the generic rice noise you might get with the obx system (the obx is set up like mine, I think the muffler makes the difference - so im not to sure about what sound it makes)
Might not hurt to toss a hi-flow cat on there, only if you feel like cutting into it more.
Heres a link
Honestly, I like mine the way I did it, picked up the OBX Header and ran the rest 2" through a magnaflo resonator and turbo muffler (3" out). It has a unique sound to it, compared to the generic rice noise you might get with the obx system (the obx is set up like mine, I think the muffler makes the difference - so im not to sure about what sound it makes)
Might not hurt to toss a hi-flow cat on there, only if you feel like cutting into it more.
Last edited by Octavious; 11-27-2011 at 12:51 AM.
#7
To some extent your options are going to depend on where you are geographically. Here in the Southwest where muffler and exhaust sytems last almost forever, it is quite common to have a muffler shop bend and weld up almost anything.
In the rust belt where stuff rusts, when I lived there everything was a bolt on and no one had the tools to bend pipe with.
If they did it was expensive.
And frankly, bent pipe material quality is not as good as manufactured stuff but it lasts for ever.
So it makes no difference.
As smog requirements have to be met in my state and pretty much everything is bent to fit. I use a generic hi-flow catalytic converter and what ever muffler at the moment I can either afford or is available. Obviously I can do pretty much what I want with out a major expense.
Next week I will have two down tubes bent at 45 degrees with 2 1/4 inch pipe that will direct exhaust from the block hugger headers around the engine mount cross member I had modified for clearance for the same so I can temporarily put shorty pipes on my Mercury Marine engine I am installing in my 1976 Hornet Sportabout. This will let me start the engine and break in the new camshaft that I installed. And be able to drive to the muffler where I can get duals bent up with an H - Pipe .
Everything will be bent to fit at the Mad Hatter, a local muffler shop.
Where I lived in the snow belt, this could not have happened, I would have had to make my own with a lot of cutting and welding.
In the rust belt where stuff rusts, when I lived there everything was a bolt on and no one had the tools to bend pipe with.
If they did it was expensive.
And frankly, bent pipe material quality is not as good as manufactured stuff but it lasts for ever.
So it makes no difference.
As smog requirements have to be met in my state and pretty much everything is bent to fit. I use a generic hi-flow catalytic converter and what ever muffler at the moment I can either afford or is available. Obviously I can do pretty much what I want with out a major expense.
Next week I will have two down tubes bent at 45 degrees with 2 1/4 inch pipe that will direct exhaust from the block hugger headers around the engine mount cross member I had modified for clearance for the same so I can temporarily put shorty pipes on my Mercury Marine engine I am installing in my 1976 Hornet Sportabout. This will let me start the engine and break in the new camshaft that I installed. And be able to drive to the muffler where I can get duals bent up with an H - Pipe .
Everything will be bent to fit at the Mad Hatter, a local muffler shop.
Where I lived in the snow belt, this could not have happened, I would have had to make my own with a lot of cutting and welding.
#9
WOW! I love it when a plan comes together. I just got back from the Madhatters muffler shop where they bent me up two short pieces of exhaust pipe which I can not do here that I can weld onto the header stubs of the exhaust manifolds used on the engine I am building. Now the exhaust pipes will fit into the notches I had built into the motor mounts and not interfere with things and still be serviciable. They are good and I knew they could do it. The last major modification is now complete.
Total cost to have these pieces fabricated was $20.00 and a quick check when I got back to the house was that they would work.
While I have never really built a high dollar engine or car I have built a number of very fast ones over the years on a budget and have developed a few opinions that seem to be verified every time I build a quick steet motor.
Exhaust systems can be very expensive and do very little for performance when it comes to a street package.
That does differ from something dedicated to racing (non-street) where almost money is no limitation. A racing exhaust system is specifically built to optimise engine performance, street systems are a comprimise for being legal, service and functional. To be honest, except for on a V-8 a big V8 where duals and some form of a Y or H pipe seems to be both needed and beneficial going much beyond that considering the expense has not proven to me anyway to be cost effective. Camshafts have. They make a big difference. Compression does providing the octane availability is there to run it. On carbureted engines, getting rid of excessive intake manifold heat sure has made a difference. Fuel injections? Lots of options, mostly expensive and generally worth spending money on them. It helps to understand what you are doing though because there is a lot of misconceptions. I've only built one and it was a speed density sysem with a non-programable engine management computor. It did not run well from the onset and it turned out that it was programmed to run with a loose torque converter and I was not using that. No where in tech support was that information available. When I finally figured that out and had one built it was like magic. But as it turned out, by that time general dissastisfaction with the unit was so great, it was out of production and tech support shut down.
It is my opinion that a whole lot of popular modifications are mostly bling and imagination but then again, when has that ever been different?
Total cost to have these pieces fabricated was $20.00 and a quick check when I got back to the house was that they would work.
While I have never really built a high dollar engine or car I have built a number of very fast ones over the years on a budget and have developed a few opinions that seem to be verified every time I build a quick steet motor.
Exhaust systems can be very expensive and do very little for performance when it comes to a street package.
That does differ from something dedicated to racing (non-street) where almost money is no limitation. A racing exhaust system is specifically built to optimise engine performance, street systems are a comprimise for being legal, service and functional. To be honest, except for on a V-8 a big V8 where duals and some form of a Y or H pipe seems to be both needed and beneficial going much beyond that considering the expense has not proven to me anyway to be cost effective. Camshafts have. They make a big difference. Compression does providing the octane availability is there to run it. On carbureted engines, getting rid of excessive intake manifold heat sure has made a difference. Fuel injections? Lots of options, mostly expensive and generally worth spending money on them. It helps to understand what you are doing though because there is a lot of misconceptions. I've only built one and it was a speed density sysem with a non-programable engine management computor. It did not run well from the onset and it turned out that it was programmed to run with a loose torque converter and I was not using that. No where in tech support was that information available. When I finally figured that out and had one built it was like magic. But as it turned out, by that time general dissastisfaction with the unit was so great, it was out of production and tech support shut down.
It is my opinion that a whole lot of popular modifications are mostly bling and imagination but then again, when has that ever been different?
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