ive had a sc1 for about a year. a few weeks ago i had a over heat a didn't realize until it was too late. the previous owner for some reason mess with the wiring so the chime doesn't work. i just tried a gasket change and head refurbish. oil and water still mixing. everything else about the car is in great shape so im looking a new used block to try a rebuild . this will be my first rebuild. im trying to fix it for my nephew next year when he turns 16.
i was looking at schematics and i didnt see any balance shaft. dont most 4 bangers have one? does this have one?

 

The 1.9 L engines in the S Series Saturn's do not have balance shafts. The later ion engines did.

How many miles on that engine/car?

I would not run out chasing a block before you determine what is still causing the milkshake situation. For example if your head is warped, that will get you nowhere.

What compression ratings do you have after doing the head gasket?

 

i took the head to a shop and had them check it out. i bought a straight edge and fillers and i checked the block and it was flat. i just trusted the machine shop for the head. i havent done a compression test. i could ask my old boss to borrow his tester next weekend. the engine is 160 000. i just got done yesterday and decided to get a new car today. also i saw white smoke coming from the oil fill cap if it was open

 

So is this now a non issue?

Compression test should give you some idea of overall engine health. A simple overheat of an S Series engine usually does not result in a blown head gasket. Not saying it didn't, just saying.

If the previous owner ran it dry eight times before you bought it, then patched it up and passed it on, that's another thing.

You can probably borrow a cooling system pressure tester as a loan a tool from AutoZone or similar. The reservoir takes a standard GM late model adapter. Just check that you have the right cap for testing before you leave the store parking lot meaning drive there in a different car. This should allow you to get an idea of how bad the leak in the system is.

Are you sure the white smoke is white smoke and not moisture IE steam? Also are you getting white smoke out the tailpipe meaning doesn't seem that the coolant is getting into the cylinders?

 

no its still an issue ( still milkshaking). as i was putting the head back on i discovered the leak. its in the radiator. so until i fix it a pressure test wont tell me anything. but since i had a machine shop do the head im pretty sure its good. if i have time ill take it back off this weekend. there isnt any other places for the antifreeze and the oil to mix right? oh it was a really long overheat. the chime doesnt work so i didnt hear anything and by the time, it had been maxed heat for a unknown time. but if the head is good and the deck of the block is flat, next thing would be a cracked block right? as for the smoke it was faint . i was flushing the oil and water when i noticed.

im really wanting to rebuild anyway. replace anything thats likey to cause problems. since i just got another car im fixing this for my nephews first car. he turns 16 next year. im hoping it will last hime for a few years. oh its a 5 speed

 

What about white smoke out the tailpipe?
Did you see any when it was overheating and do you see any after replacing the head gasket?

Or has it not been started up since the head gasket replacement? If it has, I believe if you pull the head you will need another new head gasket as the other will be a mess.

Personally I would keep the number of variables down while trying to diagnose this. Leave the head on, fix the radiator leak, then do a cooling system pressure test with dry plugs and nothing moving. If it holds full pressure, the head gasket is probably sealing properly. If it is almost holding pressure, and is a warpage issue, you should see that in the compression test. If it does not hold pressure and the amount of oil and coolant mixing is significant, then it probably does come down to a cracked block or cracked head. Though I am an expert at diagnosing either. It does sound as though this engine has been unintentionally but thoroughly abused between running way over temperature with literally watered down oil. There is no telling the extent of damage on the bottom end without a complete teardown. You may actually find it more cost effective to buy a running engine from a freshly crashed third generation S car. If you replace the radiator, do not buy the cheapest POS you can find unless you want to replace it next year as well. Yes you will spend a lifetime exercising your warranty.

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A cracked intake manifold can suck coolant into the oil passages too. At least it can on a 4.3 liter chevy V-6. Probably on a 1.9 too.

 

for a quick and free test of the coolant pressure im going to see if i can bypass the radiator with some pvc pipes i have laying around. buying a replacement car really hurt the pocket. my nephew is only 15 so i got a year. but i do plan to do a compression test this weekend.

 

Is this the only nephew you have? If not, it's going to be expected by the rest of them that when they hit 16, Uncle critmass233 is going to give us a car. And any nieces will expect the same treatment. I'd make the kid earn it by keeping up his grades and staying out of trouble, at least.

 

im trying to get my niece to get her license. she's 16. i bribed her. if you do ill buy you a computer. still nothing. she doesn't want to admit that in rural America a car is a necessity