Saturn Owner (Sorta lol)
#1
09-22-2013 | 05:20 PM
Saturn Owner (Sorta lol)
Hi everyone!
I know it may not be proper etiquette to join a car enthusiast forum without truly owning the car, but it is my girlfriends car and it does hold sentimental value to her. So, I will do what I can to make her happy, in exchange for the same from her!
Anywho, car is a 2002 SC 3-Door 5-Speed, and in bad need of some TLC that I hope to be able to give it soon.
First thing I've done to it was resurrect it yesterday from a 9 month slumber.
Cleaned empty tank out as best I could, cleared fuel lines, checked all fluids, installed new battery, and after a few attempts she began to show life!
The car seems to run fairly good, time for a test drive... that's when I heard the brakes grind.
Quick inspection shows the left inside front pad was actually missing and the caliper piston itself was pressing up against the rotor. Wow. So, new rotor, caliper, a healthy cleaning of brake components, quick gloss black rattle can paint job on a few surface rusty components, and 4 pads later now the car starts and stops!
Then I notice a rattle when it is cranked and when starting off from zero, hoping it wasn't the Clutch, I crawled back under the car and notice the Starter is loose! Jeez! Lol this car is certainly going to test my limits of patience!
Keep in mind, that's day one, about 26 hours since the car has been started in 9 months, and it is not a happy camper!
Anyways, I have some questions so I better go find the right thread and get to posting!
Thanks Everyone!
I know it may not be proper etiquette to join a car enthusiast forum without truly owning the car, but it is my girlfriends car and it does hold sentimental value to her. So, I will do what I can to make her happy, in exchange for the same from her!
Anywho, car is a 2002 SC 3-Door 5-Speed, and in bad need of some TLC that I hope to be able to give it soon.
First thing I've done to it was resurrect it yesterday from a 9 month slumber.
Cleaned empty tank out as best I could, cleared fuel lines, checked all fluids, installed new battery, and after a few attempts she began to show life!
The car seems to run fairly good, time for a test drive... that's when I heard the brakes grind.
Quick inspection shows the left inside front pad was actually missing and the caliper piston itself was pressing up against the rotor. Wow. So, new rotor, caliper, a healthy cleaning of brake components, quick gloss black rattle can paint job on a few surface rusty components, and 4 pads later now the car starts and stops!
Then I notice a rattle when it is cranked and when starting off from zero, hoping it wasn't the Clutch, I crawled back under the car and notice the Starter is loose! Jeez! Lol this car is certainly going to test my limits of patience!
Keep in mind, that's day one, about 26 hours since the car has been started in 9 months, and it is not a happy camper!
Anyways, I have some questions so I better go find the right thread and get to posting!
Thanks Everyone!
#5
09-23-2013 | 12:46 AM
Now with pictures!
Here ya go!
As you can see, she needs quite a bit of TLC:
- Brakes: replaced 4 front pads, left rotor and caliper, and cleaned up the surface rust. Would like to see about replacing the rear drums with rotors, seems easier on a FWD, them do a proper brake job and fluid exchange.
- Body: there's a little dent on the right front quarter panel, and every single thing I touched from bumper to inner fender well is loose, leading me to believe there was quite a bit of impact, I'll look into this further soon.
- Lighting: Headlights are in pretty bad shape, did a Turtle Wax headlight restoration kit, my opinion: don't bother if they are this bad off, it did help a little. I'll try some actual wet sanding in a few days n see how that turns out.
Also, I'll be replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's.
- Interior: the Headliner is ruined, the 'cardboard' material is fine but that fabric is crap, I'll be attempting to replace the fabric first before anything else. I'll be doing something with the seats too, not sure as of what yet.
The Window tint needs to be taken care of, WikiHow.com gave some good suggestions to try n get rid of old tint.
-Drive Train: did a Seafoam treatment tonight, through the vacuum tube leading to the brake booster, added the rest to the Crankcase and fuel tank, I'll let it work in the engine for about 100 miles and change the oil using conventional oil, again with conventional and let those sit in the engine for 500-1000 miles, then move to synthetic.
NGK seems to be the favorite spark plug among what I've read, so after all that works through the engine I'll change the plugs and plug wires out.
Lastly, there seems to be an oil leak on the valve cover (hopefully) I'll work on that towards the winter time when I'll have an enclosed area so the car will be okay for a couple days, in case there's other issues.
I'm sure the'll be other items, but at 1am, I can't really think of anything lol.
As you can see, she needs quite a bit of TLC:
- Brakes: replaced 4 front pads, left rotor and caliper, and cleaned up the surface rust. Would like to see about replacing the rear drums with rotors, seems easier on a FWD, them do a proper brake job and fluid exchange.
- Body: there's a little dent on the right front quarter panel, and every single thing I touched from bumper to inner fender well is loose, leading me to believe there was quite a bit of impact, I'll look into this further soon.
- Lighting: Headlights are in pretty bad shape, did a Turtle Wax headlight restoration kit, my opinion: don't bother if they are this bad off, it did help a little. I'll try some actual wet sanding in a few days n see how that turns out.
Also, I'll be replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's.
- Interior: the Headliner is ruined, the 'cardboard' material is fine but that fabric is crap, I'll be attempting to replace the fabric first before anything else. I'll be doing something with the seats too, not sure as of what yet.
The Window tint needs to be taken care of, WikiHow.com gave some good suggestions to try n get rid of old tint.
-Drive Train: did a Seafoam treatment tonight, through the vacuum tube leading to the brake booster, added the rest to the Crankcase and fuel tank, I'll let it work in the engine for about 100 miles and change the oil using conventional oil, again with conventional and let those sit in the engine for 500-1000 miles, then move to synthetic.
NGK seems to be the favorite spark plug among what I've read, so after all that works through the engine I'll change the plugs and plug wires out.
Lastly, there seems to be an oil leak on the valve cover (hopefully) I'll work on that towards the winter time when I'll have an enclosed area so the car will be okay for a couple days, in case there's other issues.
I'm sure the'll be other items, but at 1am, I can't really think of anything lol.
#6
09-23-2013 | 11:59 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,912
From: Peoria AZ
Here ya go!
As you can see, she needs quite a bit of TLC:
- Brakes: replaced 4 front pads, left rotor and caliper, and cleaned up the surface rust. Would like to see about replacing the rear drums with rotors, seems easier on a FWD, them do a proper brake job and fluid exchange.
QUOTE
My 2 cents for what that is worth. Swapping out rear drums is a personal preference as far as I am concerned. Drums work, if the do don't fix it. I own a number of cars and while my Saturn is factory 4 wheel discs as are my 2007 Chrysler my street racer and custom cars arn't and I have no intention of changing them over.
QUOTE
- Body: there's a little dent on the right front quarter panel, and every single thing I touched from bumper to inner fender well is loose, leading me to believe there was quite a bit of impact, I'll look into this further soon.
UNQUOTE
The plastic bumpers are cosmetic in nature with a lot of nothing behind them but they are bolted securely on other plastic pieces. The mounting pieces are probably damaged making it hard to fasten things back together but a heat gun applied to the bumper from the back side probably will do more good than not.
QUOTE
- Lighting: Headlights are in pretty bad shape, did a Turtle Wax headlight restoration kit, my opinion: don't bother if they are this bad off, it did help a little. I'll try some actual wet sanding in a few days n see how that turns out.
UNQUOTE
I have used the restoration kit that has the little ball meant to go into the battery operated drills and some rubbing compound along with various grits of sand paper met to wet sand with.
A battery operated drill is the best choice because it does not spin as fast as something with a cord and if spun too fast generates heat you do not want to see.
The various grits of wet sandpaper ranging from roughly 100 or 150 up though close to 600 works quite well, if not using a kit, use a sponge like one would find on a kitchen sink as a backing for your paper. A bucket of soapy water, dishwasher soap or laundry detergent and flush it with a drizzle from a hose.
It is time consuming but by starting out with 180ish and working up through 600 and buy from hardware store that carries wet sand paper even these can clean up. And use the foam ball when everything is said and done to polish the end result it will work, at least a whole bunch better than it is.
QUOTE
Also, I'll be replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's.
UNQUOTE
Personal preference, but they look nice
QUOTE
- Interior: the Headliner is ruined, the 'cardboard' material is fine but that fabric is crap, I'll be attempting to replace the fabric first before anything else. I'll be doing something with the seats too, not sure as of what yet.
The Window tint needs to be taken care of, WikiHow.com gave some good suggestions to try n get rid of old tint.
UNQUOTE
I save my money and have this done by professionals. They know how to deal with it, I don't. Had mine done a couple of years ago and the seats re-upholstered. It was not cheap but the end result looked better than new. Use money not spent on disc brakes, better spent here.
QUOTE
-Drive Train: did a Seafoam treatment tonight, through the vacuum tube leading to the brake booster, added the rest to the Crankcase and fuel tank, I'll let it work in the engine for about 100 miles and change the oil using conventional oil, again with conventional and let those sit in the engine for 500-1000 miles, then move to synthetic.
UNQUOTE
use the heaviest oil you can find and dinasaour oil is just fine. Depending on where you live and how cold winter gets a 10W40 is a perfectly good oil to use if the car has any miles on it at all.
I use a 20W50 because I can as it rarely gets below 40 degrees here and then only in March and early in the morning.
The car has had progressively heavier oil as the miles have built up and uses no oil at the present. The lightest weigh oil used was 10W30 and that was when it was purchased as a 2 year old late model used car.
It is a nice looking ride and all I can say is I have owned mine since 1996 and the reason I never replaced it I liked it and still do, it is like an old friend now. I screwed up a paint job and it is on my round tuit list to repaint it. As thus, it looks as if your winter is planed out!
NGK seems to be the favorite spark plug among what I've read, so after all that works through the engine I'll change the plugs and plug wires out.
Lastly, there seems to be an oil leak on the valve cover (hopefully) I'll work on that towards the winter time when I'll have an enclosed area so the car will be okay for a couple days, in case there's other issues.
I'm sure the'll be other items, but at 1am, I can't really think of anything lol.
As you can see, she needs quite a bit of TLC:
- Brakes: replaced 4 front pads, left rotor and caliper, and cleaned up the surface rust. Would like to see about replacing the rear drums with rotors, seems easier on a FWD, them do a proper brake job and fluid exchange.
QUOTE
My 2 cents for what that is worth. Swapping out rear drums is a personal preference as far as I am concerned. Drums work, if the do don't fix it. I own a number of cars and while my Saturn is factory 4 wheel discs as are my 2007 Chrysler my street racer and custom cars arn't and I have no intention of changing them over.
QUOTE
- Body: there's a little dent on the right front quarter panel, and every single thing I touched from bumper to inner fender well is loose, leading me to believe there was quite a bit of impact, I'll look into this further soon.
UNQUOTE
The plastic bumpers are cosmetic in nature with a lot of nothing behind them but they are bolted securely on other plastic pieces. The mounting pieces are probably damaged making it hard to fasten things back together but a heat gun applied to the bumper from the back side probably will do more good than not.
QUOTE
- Lighting: Headlights are in pretty bad shape, did a Turtle Wax headlight restoration kit, my opinion: don't bother if they are this bad off, it did help a little. I'll try some actual wet sanding in a few days n see how that turns out.
UNQUOTE
I have used the restoration kit that has the little ball meant to go into the battery operated drills and some rubbing compound along with various grits of sand paper met to wet sand with.
A battery operated drill is the best choice because it does not spin as fast as something with a cord and if spun too fast generates heat you do not want to see.
The various grits of wet sandpaper ranging from roughly 100 or 150 up though close to 600 works quite well, if not using a kit, use a sponge like one would find on a kitchen sink as a backing for your paper. A bucket of soapy water, dishwasher soap or laundry detergent and flush it with a drizzle from a hose.
It is time consuming but by starting out with 180ish and working up through 600 and buy from hardware store that carries wet sand paper even these can clean up. And use the foam ball when everything is said and done to polish the end result it will work, at least a whole bunch better than it is.
QUOTE
Also, I'll be replacing incandescent bulbs with LED's.
UNQUOTE
Personal preference, but they look nice
QUOTE
- Interior: the Headliner is ruined, the 'cardboard' material is fine but that fabric is crap, I'll be attempting to replace the fabric first before anything else. I'll be doing something with the seats too, not sure as of what yet.
The Window tint needs to be taken care of, WikiHow.com gave some good suggestions to try n get rid of old tint.
UNQUOTE
I save my money and have this done by professionals. They know how to deal with it, I don't. Had mine done a couple of years ago and the seats re-upholstered. It was not cheap but the end result looked better than new. Use money not spent on disc brakes, better spent here.
QUOTE
-Drive Train: did a Seafoam treatment tonight, through the vacuum tube leading to the brake booster, added the rest to the Crankcase and fuel tank, I'll let it work in the engine for about 100 miles and change the oil using conventional oil, again with conventional and let those sit in the engine for 500-1000 miles, then move to synthetic.
UNQUOTE
use the heaviest oil you can find and dinasaour oil is just fine. Depending on where you live and how cold winter gets a 10W40 is a perfectly good oil to use if the car has any miles on it at all.
I use a 20W50 because I can as it rarely gets below 40 degrees here and then only in March and early in the morning.
The car has had progressively heavier oil as the miles have built up and uses no oil at the present. The lightest weigh oil used was 10W30 and that was when it was purchased as a 2 year old late model used car.
It is a nice looking ride and all I can say is I have owned mine since 1996 and the reason I never replaced it I liked it and still do, it is like an old friend now. I screwed up a paint job and it is on my round tuit list to repaint it. As thus, it looks as if your winter is planed out!
NGK seems to be the favorite spark plug among what I've read, so after all that works through the engine I'll change the plugs and plug wires out.
Lastly, there seems to be an oil leak on the valve cover (hopefully) I'll work on that towards the winter time when I'll have an enclosed area so the car will be okay for a couple days, in case there's other issues.
I'm sure the'll be other items, but at 1am, I can't really think of anything lol.
#10
09-24-2013 | 09:05 AM
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,136
From: Anniston, AL
Welcome to the forum. I just recovered the headliner in mine and it was a pretty easy job. The key is making sure you get all of the old glue scraped off the backing board. I used a stiff bristle scrubbing brush on mine and it worked great. I used a piece of felt that I purchased at a fabric store and dyed it the color I wanted. I used Loctite spray glue I got a Walmart for about six bucks for a can. My total investment was about 3 hours time and $24.00 including material. I'm happy with the results. I can purchase a headliner at the local pick and pull for about $15.00, but finding one in good shape is a nightmare. I don't know what the hell people do to these things, but almost every one I've see has been damaged.