My attempt to build a Mercury Marine motor up to power my project car is almost finished. The hardest part is getting an A/C compressor that is actually usefull. The model that fits the brackets I have, the plumbing bolts on to the rear plate with a single bolt for a fitting that hold two tubes, carefull bent to go some where. And apparently that fitting is unique to the particular application that compressor was used in, making the machning to accept the fitting unique. The compressor itself appears to be universal. I may have to scrap that idea and make a new bracket and by a Sanden with universal fittings. The engine needs some trim painting and aluminum polishing to be done. The transmission a 700r4 is ready to go, modified to run with out the computor AND can be hooked up the the column shift on my 1975 AMC Hornet.
A 700r4 is a 4 speed automatic with a lock up torque converter. Hydraulic controlled except for the torque converer which is electric. It will be controlled by engine ported vacuum and a pressure switch mounted on the transmission 3/4 servo. This will keep everything from overheating which is a common failure mode for the manual switch control which is realy cheap to install but if you forget to switch it at the right time it creates problems.
I also had a 2400 rpm stall torque converter built.
This will work out well. My back is letting go so this has been a bit hard to do, but doable.
Later!
Waving

 

when do we get pics (of the build, not your achin' back)?

 

I want pictures of that body ... the Hornets that is.

 

I've got pictures on file and will take the time to put them on a posting shortly. Including a parts list. While I enjoy doing this, at least part of this project is to build on a budget. Todays economy and my personal financial position has been better in the past. So far my cash outlay on the engine and transmission combined is a bit under about $1100.00. Many parts used have been obtained through horse trading, swap meets and garage stash. Getting lucky has not hurt either.
Of a quick shift in thought, I ran accross a new automotive paint store closer to where I live and basically found out that the early failure of the the Clear Coat on my Saturn I repainted 2 years ago was primarily because I should have put more coats on. If I really was a painter rather than one that can get away with it I probably would have known that. The sun and the UV here is brutal on paint. If I live long enough I might just learn more. The type of paint used on my engine this time is actually a catalyzed enamal mixed to be the engine color I chose. While some may define it as RASPY when it comes to material, it came out very hard as a finish and I like the end effect. I think when I buy the paint to actually paint the Hornet I am considering buying the same kind of paint and the relative recent technology of Primer/Filler that also uses a hardner is beginning to make a lot of sense too.
I'll post pictures later.

 

hey that reminds me --- do you still have any Saturn black gold left?
If so, will you repaint the spoiler on my 97SC2 if I send it to you (that was a stock 97 color)?

 

Derf, here is the catch on that, at least from where I sit. My Saturn, a 1994 had the factory color of black gold on it. Not exactly sure now how I determined that at the time but------ Black Gold is not a 1994 factory color. Those things do happen. That is not the first time I have ran accross a factory color that was on a car that did not offer it if the manufacture date was close to a model change over. So I bought it as a 1995 color when I repainted it. However, the paint I bought not only had the gold metalic in it but also blues and reds and and I think maybe greens. I bought it as a base coat clear coat. The paint was mixed for me at a local paint store. And I assume to the paint charts they had that reflected the proper combinations. The following web site;
http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.asp...aturn-pg01.jpg
indicates the paint color number is 4967 for 1995 through 1998 with (surprise) 1997 missing. Go figure. As I was going to repaint the car completly it did not bother me when I found that rather than just being gold but the other colors too were not a problem and frankly I liked it better. However! As to your request I don't know that the left over paint I have is exactly the same as what you need as it sure was not exactly the color that was on the car originally. I certainly would find the time to repaint your spoiler I (1) had enough and the can has not dried out, and it had not last year when I used it to paint something with and (2) I could be assured it was the right color you need. If for no other reason than I need to re-shoot the clear as it is deteriorating and doing so would give me a good excuse to get-r-done as Larry the Cable guy would say. I would locally here have to find out from the store I bought the paint from what the formulation is and I assume that thier record keeping would still be able to figure that from and also I just located another custom paint store closer last week that looks to be a good source for paint and stupid question answers from us wanna be painters.
Thus I would have to see what I got and why and see if I can actually get the same forumlation I bought for my self if I need it too. Although I think in my case I can get away with just re-shooting the clear.
Its 1:15 in the morning so I hope this makes some sense. It does if I re-read it, but then again I wrote it. Unless of course you know something I don't.
As to a plan B, I still have to probably buy some clear and purchasing a small quantity of Black Gold Base Coat is certainly a possibility too and not a problem except for the unexplained difference in what my car was actually factory painted vs what I bought and why?
I do though have to by some Blue and some pearl to go in it for my Hornet but I don't think that is the proper solution for this application.

 

These are the most recent photo's of this project. Unlike a T.V. program that shows in a half hour or so how to do this in a weeks time with a staff of 30 people and an unlimited budget. A one man partially invalidid on a limited budget takes longer.
The engine is a Mercruiser Stern drive motor purchased out of a boat in Florida last Sept. It is now configured with an Alternator, Power Steering pump, smog pump and A/C compressor. The carburetor will be a Carter 625 cfm 9500 series (1 of 2) or an Edelbrock performer equivalent or I have a Thermo-quad of about 900cfm I can use. But probably the Carter. The intake is a Chinese no name knock off of an Air Gap manifold, probably of an Edelbrock. The distributor will be an HEI 1 wire unit using the wires that were with the engine. Spark plugs will be Champion and about 3 heat ranges colder than called for by the spec. books for a stock engine. The cylinder heads are World Heads, cast iron. The engine itself is a short block rebuilt engine and the compression ratio measures out to be 9:1 which is perfect for the max 91 octane premium gasoline available in the area I live in. The block is a 4 bolt main GM 350 cu in V8 cast between 1987 and 1993. The cam shaft is a flat tappet Iskenderian 260/270 cam with matched hydraulic lifters with a lift just under 1/2 inch which keeps one out of doing additional head work on a street motor. This engine has a factory windage tray as part of it's configuration and features the single rear main seal. The headers are referred to as block hugger headers and clear bits and pieces of the engine while being not causing problems. The starter is a mini-starter and fits the smaller of two available flex plates that can be part of the automatic transmission. And that is the one that came with the 700r4 used automatic purchased having no clue where it came from other than it was a working transmission and is probably about a 1991 unit. A 700r4 is a hydraulic controlled 4 speed automatic with a fairly low 1st gear, 4th being an overdrive and an electronic lock up torque converter. This gearing works well with a rear axle ratio in the low 3's or high 2's as this car I have probably has in it. I have had a 2400 rpm stall torque converter built for it and replaced the front and rear main seals, pan gasket and filter. An adapter than monitors ported vacuum from the carburetor and the pressure of the 3/4 gear servo of the transmission and plugs into the control connector for the torque converter replaces the computer controls for the transmission. This simulates the proper operation for the lock up converter and keeps the transmission from overheating or failing due to lack of attention. A simple solution for a complex problem. An adapter to the shift linkage will let the column shift of the 1976 Hornet Station Wagon that I will install this in control the transmission. The marine motor mounts can use a hot rod motor mount with a simple adapter to place the engine in the car and the transmission mount is a simple adapter also. The kick down and throttle linkage is also an aftermarket hot rod mounting bracket to allow it to work. A drive shaft can be modified an balanced for about $100.00. The color of the Engine is AMC Engine Metallic Blue and is a Catalyzed enamel.
This is a budget project. Most of these parts including the engine were purchased used from swap meets, junk yards or horse traded for. Exception being the transmission modification parts and the Cam Shaft for the engine. And some cosmetic dress up parts. The car I own. It needs restoration but I already have all the mechanical parts, all of the interior parts leaving only the seats to be re-upholstered in cloth and the windows to be tinted. And of course the paint to be purchased and the car painted. Minor parking dents to be taken care of as needed.
The car is a 1976 AMC Hornet Station wagon with about 80,000 miles on it. Referred to as a Sportabout. Options in 1976 were quite sparse, it has disc brakes, cosmetics as you see it, no factory radio but I have a Cadillac one I will install, power steering and dealer installed A/C which I will adapt to the compressor on this engine. The final color will be a dark blue with a pearl additive and a 1975 version of the stripes which are available as a reproduction part. The seats are in vinyle, but I will do them in cloth. Everything else will be redone as reproduction. And have the windows tinted.
This is a hobby for me. And a challenge to see how I can do this on a budget.
So far considering actual expenditures, I have about $1100 in the engine and transmission as it sits. About $400.00 in the car. Paint an materials I estimate out to about $600.00, seats will probably cost another $500.00 or so to have re-upholstered. Incidentals such as exhaust system and tires etc. may run another grand or so.
A new Chevy Volt will cost about $35,000.
This has been accomplished by scrounging, trading and bartering for bits an pieces and hours spent cleaning, refurbishing and making them work. To me this is a lot more fun than making payments on a new 4 door sedan I don't want. Not to mention being able to drive it.
Why? Because I can AND I will register it as a movie car that can be leased for period correct movie use and let it pay me to own it.

 

Damn that thing is ugly, I'd be proud to drive it.

 

A HORNET wagon ........... to cool.

 

would you expect anything less cool from Unc?