Waterless Engine Coolant ??
#1
Waterless Engine Coolant ??
OK -- I'm starting to read about a new(?) product, a waterless engine coolant. The advertising information claims the product is much better for your engine, and will also save fuel by increasing your MPG.
Now, I'll be the first to admit I'm an "old school type", and I'll even accept (for discussion purposes) the statement that this coolant would be better for your engine - but how can a coolant increase your MPG ?? Besides, from what I've read, the cost of this product is 4-5 times as much as conventional pre-mixed coolant products ...
Now, I'll be the first to admit I'm an "old school type", and I'll even accept (for discussion purposes) the statement that this coolant would be better for your engine - but how can a coolant increase your MPG ?? Besides, from what I've read, the cost of this product is 4-5 times as much as conventional pre-mixed coolant products ...
#4
seems to me to be a somewhat risky proposition for our older cars which are not designed to be compatible. I've heard (from Saturn-turned GM techs) that some of the all purpose antifreezes actually corrode the water pumps faster due to their composition and the water pumps not being designed (seals and materials) for it. I know it's pretty hard to use other than universal, and it's a long term issue, but I'm just throwing it out there.
Might be totally ok -- not bashing it since to date I have no info on it --just pointing out there may be a compatibility issue
Might be totally ok -- not bashing it since to date I have no info on it --just pointing out there may be a compatibility issue
Last edited by derf; 01-11-2012 at 03:32 PM.
#6
There are a number of >Waterless< coolant products, no particular name comes to mind at the moment. The claim of course is that they cool the engine better and to some extent that is probably true. Of course comparing to pre-mixed coolant available today for cost. Things such as Prestone Antifreeze? A gallon of pre-mix consists of half a gallon of water which is free from my faucet. This makes pre-mix more expensive than just buying a gallon of REAL anti-freeze.
However, with todays engines running hotter than they used to an engine that has a marginal cooling problem either through age or a modification such as a transplant if the water starts to boil (water being coolant) the water pump will cavitate causing bubbles in cooling system which both agrevates the tendancy to run hotter and also induce hot spots internal to the cooling system. A engine with cooling problems will not get as good a gas mileage as one that is not having problems.
A waterless coolant is going to have a higher boiling point so the water pump will not cavitate.
I don't see where if you are having no problems the coolant will make a bit of difference. However todays motors run on the edge of overheating by old school definitions, cross that line and the waterless coolant will do as claimed.
Todays Thermostat is generally 195 degrees or more. Todays pressure cap on the radiator is or can be up to 16# normally. Boiling is 212, but at 16# pressure, the engine can run much hotter with out boiling.
If you do a fuel injection conversion, part of that conversion is to switch the thermostate from something less to one that is 195 degrees. Most fuel injections are programed to treat cold start settings to run until engine temperatures reach that point.
Old school carbureted engines CAN be no pressure cap and maybe a 145 degree thermostat.
Remember a thermostat does not regulate how hot the motor gets, but establishes a minimum cold setting.
I have owned both types of cars and frankly still do.
My street racer, a 390 cu in 425 hp V8 I run an after market Flow Kooler water pump, a desert cooler radiator with about another gallon of water capacity and a 145 degree thermostat and a clutch fan. It will not over heat in 120 degree weather in a traffic jam.
My second street racer is a fuel injected conversion of a 35 year old I-6 with over sized radiator, flow kooler water pump and 195 degree themostat. It too will not overheat in the same temperature but I have to turn the A/C off if caught in traffic jams.
I can see where waterless koolant can benefit some one, but first they have to be on the edge of a problem that they have not been able to solve. Generally a big engined conversion with a marginal cooling system. Or a combination of the same.
Drag racing with back to back runs can do that too. Been there done that.
However, with todays engines running hotter than they used to an engine that has a marginal cooling problem either through age or a modification such as a transplant if the water starts to boil (water being coolant) the water pump will cavitate causing bubbles in cooling system which both agrevates the tendancy to run hotter and also induce hot spots internal to the cooling system. A engine with cooling problems will not get as good a gas mileage as one that is not having problems.
A waterless coolant is going to have a higher boiling point so the water pump will not cavitate.
I don't see where if you are having no problems the coolant will make a bit of difference. However todays motors run on the edge of overheating by old school definitions, cross that line and the waterless coolant will do as claimed.
Todays Thermostat is generally 195 degrees or more. Todays pressure cap on the radiator is or can be up to 16# normally. Boiling is 212, but at 16# pressure, the engine can run much hotter with out boiling.
If you do a fuel injection conversion, part of that conversion is to switch the thermostate from something less to one that is 195 degrees. Most fuel injections are programed to treat cold start settings to run until engine temperatures reach that point.
Old school carbureted engines CAN be no pressure cap and maybe a 145 degree thermostat.
Remember a thermostat does not regulate how hot the motor gets, but establishes a minimum cold setting.
I have owned both types of cars and frankly still do.
My street racer, a 390 cu in 425 hp V8 I run an after market Flow Kooler water pump, a desert cooler radiator with about another gallon of water capacity and a 145 degree thermostat and a clutch fan. It will not over heat in 120 degree weather in a traffic jam.
My second street racer is a fuel injected conversion of a 35 year old I-6 with over sized radiator, flow kooler water pump and 195 degree themostat. It too will not overheat in the same temperature but I have to turn the A/C off if caught in traffic jams.
I can see where waterless koolant can benefit some one, but first they have to be on the edge of a problem that they have not been able to solve. Generally a big engined conversion with a marginal cooling system. Or a combination of the same.
Drag racing with back to back runs can do that too. Been there done that.
#7
I agree with Unc 100% ... Justice Brothers or JB (http://justicebrothers.com/) made an additive that helped the cooling of my 72 Vega when I dropped in a 400ci small block years ago. I had to wait for a radiator to be built yet I still wanted to drive the thing to see what bugs needed to be worked out. Using a waterless product may very well be the item someone needs when their project car is running on the hotter side. I can't see it doing any good on any late model cars that are running properly. And another thought is sensors are set up to go on and off at particular temps. So putting a 165* stat and waterless coolent in you car may make it run like crap.
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