Hello, I'm selling my 1996 SC2. I've owned this car for 10 years.

The car has a manual transmission, 191k miles on it and runs quite well.

Details:

• Occasionally the engine will idle at 2000rpm before returning to normal.
• It has AC, but is not working right now. In the past, an AC recharge has made it work for 2-3 months.
• All manual door locks/hand crank windows function.
• Burns oil, about 1qt per 400 miles on the highway
• Recently found oil in my air filter, no ring job has ever been done on this car to my knowledge.
• Some plastic parts are broken: hood release handle, glove compartment release, center console, parking brake button (although I have the spring/button and still use it by jamming it into the top)
• Clutch works fine, all gears work
• Service engine soon light is on. Could not make the paperclip method work for some reason.
• In heavy rain there is a slow leak in the driver's side window and the passenger side of the windshield
• The flip up lights both work.
• The car has never overheated while I've had it.

I'm asking $700 obo. I'll post some pics, let me know if anyone is interested.

 

This is a good for sale post. I approve.
Such a nice car, I love this style sc2.
Deserves a turbo.

 

Hey Saturnvrocket,


What's the rust like underneath? Have you had the engine light scanned at an auto parts store to see what the code is?

 

Hi Dave4422,

The underside is actually pretty good. This car lived in New Mexico for a long time, I moved to Michigan about 5 years ago. I'll attach some pictures. No, I haven't taken it in to an auto store.

Here's some underside pics. Rear:





Front






Exhaust








Sorry it took so long to respond. I can see about going to an auto store for the codes.

 

talk about full disclosure!

ODBII came in for 1996 so the paper clip method no longer works.

I have three codes in mind but don't want to clutter your for sale thread with guesses.

 

Thanks for your response, I can almost eat off that frame!

 

Glad to hear it! New Mexico is easy on the metal parts, but hard on the plastic parts. I got an auto parts store to pull the trouble codes:

p0172, Fuel Trim System Rich (Bank 1)
p0420, Catalyst System Low Efficiency

I wonder if it's the O2 sensor again.

 

P0172

Have you ever changed the ECTS (coolant temp sensor) from the resin-tipped one to the brass-style redesigned part? When the old ones fail, they usually fail in such a way that the PCM infers from the voltage drop across the sensor that the coolant is always at -40 F. The air fuel mix then gets skewed to the rich side -- all the time---trying to compensate. While there may be other forces at work, I'd start there.

Could also be a fuel pressure regulator issue.

This could also explain the P0420 if the engine is running so rich that the cat can't keep up w conversion of exhaust gases.

Or the cat might be history. Bang on it with a mallet. If it sounds like marbles in there your cat has disintegrated and probably needs replacing.

Or the rear O2 sensor may be fouled/poisoned and giving inaccurate readings to the PCM. If you do have to replace this, go with the Denso. It is the same sensor as the OEM one but half the price that GM wants for it.
_______________________________
Do the ECTS + Connector, clear the codes, drive around for a while --at least 50 mi or so, and see if the light comes back on.

Source the ECTS and connector from a GM dealership. $45 or so. Aftermarket ones have issues with calibration. Connector corrosion or leakage of coolant into it messes up the reading and the connector. Just replace both.

 

Hi derf,

I know that the ECTS was recently replaced, but I had it done at a shop so I don't know what kind they put in it.

 

Check under the hood and see if they spliced in a new connector --it's a dealer only part. Also, remove the connector (squeeze) and inspect for corrosion and antifreeze residue.

Why was it replaced? (not an inquisition, just trying to put all the puzzle pieces together)