Saturn 3 Door Coupes SC1 and SC2

Gas gauge not working right

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  #11  
Old 08-18-2013 | 04:50 PM
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Ok was not sure if resistance changed that much as it warmed up
 
  #12  
Old 08-18-2013 | 06:09 PM
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Didn't bother to check it just changed it as when I pulled the connector off one of the pins stayed on the connector. The good news is the rpms are down below 1100 at idle and does seem to want to stall out anymore. So thank you very much the help.
And yes I did pull the old pin out of the connector.
 

Last edited by Paul b; 08-18-2013 at 06:15 PM.
  #13  
Old 08-18-2013 | 08:46 PM
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Golly darn -- that makes me two for two today.

Maybe I should treat myself to a night out at the local casino ... LOL
 
  #14  
Old 08-18-2013 | 09:22 PM
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Yes you should. Lol
 
  #15  
Old 08-19-2013 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul b
I never thought about greeseing the connections that is a good idea it seems to be running fine exept on start up and then sometimes it acts like it is flooded but other then that it run good. I am thinking might try injector cleaner in it I have always used Lucas in the past. But been hearing about sea foam. What is your option on that product.
Todays more modern cars, and that is a relative statement in that the 2nd car I ever owned was a 1930 Model A Ford pulled out from a small junk yard was used much the same way the S series Saturns are used in this thread. As beaters more or less with problems that needed correction. Had a whole lot less electronics and the wiring was bad (don't ever say they did not build them like they used to, you have no clue how much better built they are today) but being as it was a lot simpler I was able to re-wire the whole car with out a problem and that solved a lot of things. A solution that is not remotely possible today.
With the number of connectors used in todays cars connections can and do oxidize causing problems. A way to solve those problems is to unplug and replug the connectors. Doing that as the pins un-mate and the re-mate it scrapes the contact points clean. The electrical grease works by coating the mating surfaces and prevents air from making contact with them, the helping to prevent corrosion from re-forming.
The factory does that when they make the car. Well after the fact, keeping a tube of it handy when you are working on things helps keep things working better longer. 'Specially if your car is driven in a salt on the road environment.
Just saying.
As to the the others? I have used Lucas Products in the past. Generally when age and mileage has shown up on products like transmissions and such which Lucas Claims that they address and for the most part I believe I have extended the useful life out using those products. I use some Lucas products when installing new or rebuilt pieces. I have also used STP at times and it was functionally useful.
As to SeaFoam? The latest one of many products like it on the shelves and I personally have not run across a need for it although I bought a can and it sat on the shelves long enough where I forgot about it. I used it recently on my Spirit which was having a problem and SeaFoam amused things enough to use it, but it did nothing because there was a bad sensor causing the problem. The stuff ain't magic and motor fix it in a can rarely fixes much of anything. At least in my experience.
 
  #16  
Old 08-19-2013 | 07:43 PM
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My first cat was not as old as yours but it was an early 70's Datsun but as it was per computer and did have points and condenser in so I have a little trouble with sensors that mess with computer controls but as the is the age we live in I guess I will have to get use to it.
 
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