I just received a box of bulbs. P74 to replace some burned out bulbs in my IP. Except it's not what I thought it was. Now I've got problems. I've included pictures, so review them while reading the text below.

Problem 1. The direct replacement bulbs are actually bigger than originals. However, I dry-fitted it into the socket and it seems to work. I have no idea about heat and power load. (Read on.)

Problem 2. The original bulbs appear to be crimped or soldered to metal contacts on either side of the bulb. I have neither the equipment nor the confidence in working these little pieces of metal.

Problem 3. Since the size is different, I don't know if there is enough room for the bulb and the metal contacts to fit into the housing (for lack of a better word).

Problem 4. The package came in a pack of 10. I only need 2.

So, I need either tips on equipment or soldering (which I've never tried before), or I can ship the new bulbs and the old bulbs w/housings to someone to do it for me.

Derf, I know IP bulbs are on your to-do list. I've looked at all the bulbs in the back of the IP I could look at, but haven't gone any farther than that. If you have any questions for me, I'll be glad to answer them. Hope my experience gives you a few things to think about.

Oh, and shifter bushing comes next. I just got too cold to work on both these projects at once in 20 degree weather. (Yup, I'm a wuss.)

Thanks

I put the pictures in an album because.....reasons. Sorry!

Saturn Forum - Saturn Enthusiasts Forums - Dave4422's Album: IP Bulbs

 

Dave,

I believe the metal side tabs are there to contact the traces in the IP board. I'm sure the bulbs came that way from the factory. The bulb holders are just ...bulb holders and tab positioners . The new bulbs are designed for a socket powered application. Not your fault,, we need to track down the correct bulb as they won't work in this application..

To attempt to solder on makeshift tabs is grounds for dismissal from the forum and contacting the authorities for mental health reasons. You'd have to solder extra lead wire from the present ends on and solder metal tabs to it, not necessarily in that order, but it is insanity to try to do so unless left w no other alternative..

As an aside, I would replace all the bulbs in there at the same time, as they have all received addl physical shock during disassembly and secondly do you really ever want to have to open up the dash every 2/years to replace 3/bulbs at a time?

I'll do some digging as I plan to start this project soon.

 

I love ripping apart my dash every 6 months!

Amazon bites me again!

The search continues!

 

central daylight savings time does have that effect on some people.
Prob the same people that drive 45 on the Dan Ryan at 4 am with the windows down and no headlights

 

Thankfully I live far enough south to avoid that kind of madness. We listen to country music down here.

 

There were two bulbs out (filament broken) in the IP. One was a stage light along the top of the IP, another was for an indicator light. I replaced the broken indicator bulb with the one good stage light and put the whole assembly back in My thinking was I didn't need the stage lighting. Started up the car and found the indicator bulb illuminated the DRL indicator on the IP. It's the first time I've seen that light since I've owned the car.

 

How long does it take to assemble to complete clusure and to disassemble, respectively?. Thx.

 

Since I've disassembled my dash before, I "knew what I was doing", so it didn't take that long. Disassembly of the dash for me took less than 5 minutes. The IP is held in by two bolts and unclip the wiring harness. I don't know if the 97 has a mechanical linkage for the odometer, so look for that. The bulbs are accessed from the IP assembly from the back. Use a blade screwdriver or needle nose to twist them out. Total time for disassembly/assembly can be as quick as 30 min if you have the right tools/parts.

 

Found this at Rock Auto. This is closer to what I'm looking at on my desk.

WAGNER PC118

This was also helpful. Found over at our friends at saturnfans.

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=152386

And using that, I found this. This appears to match OEM part manufacturer.

http://www.new-part.com/product/merc...bs-12v-15w-oem

Using this part number: osram-sylvania 910141-000000 I found an Amazon listing where Saturn owners had installed the part with no problems and correct fit. I've ordered some and will let you know when they come in and how they fit. (Sorry for the rambling post!)

 

funny, I read the SF post and was spreadsheeting what RockAuto offered for my 97 SC2 and when I saw the PC 118's I said to myself "TTHHHATTT'S what Dave was referring to b/c I couldn't fathom what kind of weird crap they would waste time devising for a freakin dashboard light. So my response about touching Traces on the board is the only thing that made ant sense.


Was I right?