not firing
#2
1). what plugs did you put in? Please be specific.
2) check to see if you hooked the wires back up to the correct plugs. The firing order is on a sticker on the front cross support under the hood.
2) check to see if you hooked the wires back up to the correct plugs. The firing order is on a sticker on the front cross support under the hood.
#3
Was it running okay before you replaced the plugs? Do what derf suggested. I'll also ask you if you torqued them to spec or just "snugged" them. If they're not tight enough, it'll miss because it's blowing air out around them. If you over tighten them, you risk stripping the threads and that's something you REALLY don't want to do.
#4
g power platinum plugs,
i'm positive about the order of the wires
i replaced both coil packs
and a new set of wires
hand-threaded, then lightly tightened
on the old plugs it would start fine and idle smooth
but they were burnt out bad
i'm positive about the order of the wires
i replaced both coil packs
and a new set of wires
hand-threaded, then lightly tightened
on the old plugs it would start fine and idle smooth
but they were burnt out bad
#5
Pretty easy to sort out.
Put it back exactly the way it was.
Previous plugs
Previous wires
Previous coils
---------------------------------------------
Use NGK 5643 {#BKR5ESA11} if a DOHC
Use NGK 7755 {#BKR4ESA11} if a SOHC
S car ignition systems were designed for copper plugs.
Please stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
---------------------------------------------
1) With everything "pre change" back in and the car running well, change plugs only.
2) If no issues, put old plugs back, change wires.
3) If no issue, put old wires back
4) Change coils; If there is a problem, it is likely the coils or it could be something like a combination of the coils and wires.
Why did you change the coils? Idling smooth on older plugs seems like a good reason not to change the coils.
If you are swapping out ignition parts en masse in an attempt to "increase performance", personally I do not believe you're getting anything significant out of it.
And obviously you're creating issues with ignition.
And I assume you meant 0.040", 40 thousandths /in.
You typed 40" which is over 3 feet and obv not what you did.
Trying to make sure you did 0.040" and not 0.40"
Put it back exactly the way it was.
Previous plugs
Previous wires
Previous coils
---------------------------------------------
Use NGK 5643 {#BKR5ESA11} if a DOHC
Use NGK 7755 {#BKR4ESA11} if a SOHC
S car ignition systems were designed for copper plugs.
Please stop trying to reinvent the wheel.
---------------------------------------------
1) With everything "pre change" back in and the car running well, change plugs only.
2) If no issues, put old plugs back, change wires.
3) If no issue, put old wires back
4) Change coils; If there is a problem, it is likely the coils or it could be something like a combination of the coils and wires.
Why did you change the coils? Idling smooth on older plugs seems like a good reason not to change the coils.
If you are swapping out ignition parts en masse in an attempt to "increase performance", personally I do not believe you're getting anything significant out of it.
And obviously you're creating issues with ignition.
And I assume you meant 0.040", 40 thousandths /in.
You typed 40" which is over 3 feet and obv not what you did.
Trying to make sure you did 0.040" and not 0.40"
#6
Once again, I have to agree with derf 100%. Some people just have to learn the hard way. I'm one of them too, so don't feel like I'm picking on you. Take a look at the squeeze connector to your ECTS too. Sometimes they'll get cracked and lose contact and cause all kinds of trouble. Get back to us on what you decide.
#7
i've been chasing a power loss problem, bogging down and stalling out, that's what lead me to the plugs. and why i changed the coils too.
plug order: 1-2-3-4
coils: 4-1-2-3
i pulled the ones i just put in, and they are pretty dirty already. i have a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank, but should they look like this?
here's a short video of me trying to start it: wont start.MOV
plug order: 1-2-3-4
coils: 4-1-2-3
i pulled the ones i just put in, and they are pretty dirty already. i have a bottle of fuel injector cleaner in the tank, but should they look like this?
here's a short video of me trying to start it: wont start.MOV
Last edited by Matt Bellah; 06-15-2016 at 04:48 PM.
#8
Ok,
1) Although the G platinum plugs are of the same heat range as the stock NGK coppers mentioned above, there is obviously an issue with the plug getting too hot. The insulator is disintegrating. This is LIKELY due to inadequate heat dissipation during ignition.
Pre-ignition/detonation MAY be contributing but I don't know enough about it to speak intelligently and give you sound advice.
And that gap can't be 0.040". What is it?
Sounds like the combination of a failed ECTS and improper spark plugs for the application. Additional issues like pre-ignition MAY be present. Dunno.
1) Although the G platinum plugs are of the same heat range as the stock NGK coppers mentioned above, there is obviously an issue with the plug getting too hot. The insulator is disintegrating. This is LIKELY due to inadequate heat dissipation during ignition.
Pre-ignition/detonation MAY be contributing but I don't know enough about it to speak intelligently and give you sound advice.
And that gap can't be 0.040". What is it?
Sounds like the combination of a failed ECTS and improper spark plugs for the application. Additional issues like pre-ignition MAY be present. Dunno.