SES light and ignition switch
#1
SES light and ignition switch
Hey Guys, I took the Saturn to Nashville today as I had an appointment with my neurosurgeon and it gets the best mileage. I checked it when I got home and it was 39.59mpg. Frigging awesome! Anyway, when I stopped to put gas in it on the way home, after I filled up and pulled out, I noticed the radio wasn't working and I couldn't get it to play. As I looked at the dash, I noticed the Service Engine Soon light was on. At first I thought that maybe I didn't have the gas cap tight, but clearly remembered it clicking when I put it back on. So on a whim, I checked the key and it seemed that it was stuck just a little bit forward. I jiggled it back just a hair and the SES light went off and the radio started working again. Is this an indication that the switch may be going bad and I need to replace it or can I just lubricate it with some graphite? I'm in the middle of insulating my garage and all of my tools and stuff are scattered for now and I can't find my powdered graphite anywhere. I know I have some, it's just going to be a couple of days before I run across it. On a side note, the doc is upping my Lyrica dosage and is scheduling me for epidural steroid injections. The PT has not done a damn thing for me except cost me time and money.
#4
If done the graphite thing, mixed with a little synthetic oil. I am not waving the flag of synthetic are a cure all, I don't think they are but for certain general purpose applications where mixing with crud and dirt, they don't seem to have a problem with building up with dirt and that can be good.
I am sure using a lubricant is a crutch, but maybe that was all it needed in the first place.
I am sure using a lubricant is a crutch, but maybe that was all it needed in the first place.
#5
Well, the graphite helped some. I guess the next time I go to Pull A Part, I'll be looking to see how to take the ignition switch out. Do these have the replaceable key tabs like the Mopars? If so, maybe I can find a kit and just replace the lettered tabs. I did that to my 99 Grand Caravan and it worked great.
#6
With respect to the ignition switch (not to be confused with the ignition lock cylinder) - the Saturn Chilton Manual has a very detailed set of explainations along with pictures to help you remove/reinstall the ignition switch
#7
I've never pulled an ignitions switch. It's hardly been easy to pull the lock cylinders out of the cars I have done so I guess I have avoided it if I could. Mostly AMC in that case although I did repair a tilt steering wheel assembly for AMC (a GM unit) and that was an excercise in intricate frustration, but got it done. Had to, the entire top section swung in a huge big circle. That car was a real piece of crap when I bought it.
I do though have some sort of a manual for everything I own except my New Chrysler T&C. I just bought this year the 4 volumn AMC factory manual for the Horent I am working on.
They are the most important single purchase you can make if you are going to work on your own cars.
I do though have some sort of a manual for everything I own except my New Chrysler T&C. I just bought this year the 4 volumn AMC factory manual for the Horent I am working on.
They are the most important single purchase you can make if you are going to work on your own cars.
Last edited by uncljohn; 11-15-2011 at 08:06 AM.
#9
It's been raining here very hard and I haven't had time to pull the codes. I had to take my daughter to the oral surgeon yesterday for wisdom teeth removal. Fun 150 mile round trip. After I got her home, I had to get out in the rain and go get her pain meds. We've had between four and five inches of rain in the past 36 hours and more is on the way. It's raining now. And I guess I should have said lock cylinder and key instead of switch. I know they're different. I just was wondering if I can get a re-key kit for it from a GM dealer.
#10
Aaahhhhhhh --- Lock cylinder and key issues ...
Chilton addresses those issues quite well too. Also, your local locksmith will be able to repin a new cylinder to accept your original key ... costs about $10 here locally
Chilton addresses those issues quite well too. Also, your local locksmith will be able to repin a new cylinder to accept your original key ... costs about $10 here locally