2001 L300 3.0L V6 Auto - Won't stay running!
#1
2001 L300 3.0L V6 Auto - Won't stay running!
Current Stats:
Fuel Pressure: 40 (cranked) / 19 (key-over)
Fuel: 1/2 Tank
Battery: Working
Current Codes: None w/ Previous Codes (Voltage / Transmission [which has been on-going; causing intermittent shifting issues until code resets])
Current Condition: Vehicle Sitting after a Tow
Engine: 3.0L V6
Engine Mileage: 144K
What I have done since it's been towed:
A) Replaced all fuses with new ones
B) Checked the fuel pressure (40 cranked) / 19 with key over
C) Oil change
D) Oil Filter change
E) Fuel Filter Change
F) PowerTrain Control Module (PCM) changed from stock "version II" to a Pick-N-Pull 03 LW300 "version III" which has been properly VIN Programmed via
which worked perfectly as the expert explained.
G) Used an Oreilly's OBDII reader and cleared codes with a jumpstart from my kind neighbor Nichole.
It starts and looks as if it's going to idle; the service engine light remains on during this step; then it gets to 3000 RPM's when I am pushing the gas peddle a bunch before seizing. Can't seem to get past this part.
I checked again for the fuel pressure and created this video as to what's happening at this time frame of this repair.
YouTube Video: 01-27-2020
Without knowing for certain; a couple things are popping in my head.
1) Could it be the alternator? Hence; the not being able to keep alive. (However; given the weak RPM/idle -- it seems as if it has something to do with something else.)
2) Could it be a sensor that isn't throwing a DTC code?
* Updated @ 19:41 - Also to note: The shrader valve puked a bunch of fuel upon removal as opposed to exiting the outpour tubing - Seemed like it defeated the purpose and I used a brand new fuel pressure kit from amazon. It wasn't necessarily cheap either. I was wondering why it would do that... regardless of the pressure readings.
Thank you!
~ TruthSword
Fuel Pressure: 40 (cranked) / 19 (key-over)
Fuel: 1/2 Tank
Battery: Working
Current Codes: None w/ Previous Codes (Voltage / Transmission [which has been on-going; causing intermittent shifting issues until code resets])
Current Condition: Vehicle Sitting after a Tow
Engine: 3.0L V6
Engine Mileage: 144K
What I have done since it's been towed:
A) Replaced all fuses with new ones
B) Checked the fuel pressure (40 cranked) / 19 with key over
C) Oil change
D) Oil Filter change
E) Fuel Filter Change
F) PowerTrain Control Module (PCM) changed from stock "version II" to a Pick-N-Pull 03 LW300 "version III" which has been properly VIN Programmed via
G) Used an Oreilly's OBDII reader and cleared codes with a jumpstart from my kind neighbor Nichole.
It starts and looks as if it's going to idle; the service engine light remains on during this step; then it gets to 3000 RPM's when I am pushing the gas peddle a bunch before seizing. Can't seem to get past this part.
I checked again for the fuel pressure and created this video as to what's happening at this time frame of this repair.
YouTube Video: 01-27-2020
Without knowing for certain; a couple things are popping in my head.
1) Could it be the alternator? Hence; the not being able to keep alive. (However; given the weak RPM/idle -- it seems as if it has something to do with something else.)
2) Could it be a sensor that isn't throwing a DTC code?
* Updated @ 19:41 - Also to note: The shrader valve puked a bunch of fuel upon removal as opposed to exiting the outpour tubing - Seemed like it defeated the purpose and I used a brand new fuel pressure kit from amazon. It wasn't necessarily cheap either. I was wondering why it would do that... regardless of the pressure readings.
Thank you!
~ TruthSword
#4
If you're just sitting there revving the engine and not going anywhere, it MIGHT have a rev limiter on it. Have you tried just driving it up the road and seeing if it will go above 3,000 rpm? I had a PT Cruiser Turbo and thought there was something wrong with it when I couldn't rev it past 3,200 rpm with it sitting in park. Turns out, it had a rev limiter on it! Boy, did I feel stupid!!!!
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