I got the fuel line off the rail inlet ok.

The mounting inlet thingy with the 1 inch thin nut seems a bit wobbly like there is a rubber gasket in there that I would like to inspect, does anybody know how to remove this part? Thanks!

 

Please use one of those picture taking thingies to capture an image of it. Then use the sw interface picture doohickey to post it to the forum.

Thanks.

 

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I have no idea what the hell that is. Hopefully derf will know or maybe can find it in the Haynes manual I sent him.

 

I believe that is simply an inlet fitting for the fuel rail. It may have an o-ring under it given the constant fuel pressure at the rail. Don't know. Did you use a wrench to hold it in place when you were disconnecting the fuel line? It gives you somewhere to put a backup wrench when you are disconnecting the fuel line.

If you did not use a backup wrench on it, it may have become partially unthreaded. But that is just a guess.

I've never seen it mentioned as a serviceable item and I've never seen anyone post questions as to its function so I suspect it is not terribly special.

The fact that it has wrench flats on it tells me it's either a stationary grip or something that rotates. Experiment at your own risk.

I've never seen a fuel rail without one attached but I would think it would be threaded in. But twist at your own risk.

I don't have time right now to dig through the online part sites. Try looking for fuel rail inlet nut or fuel rail inlet fitting or just fuel rail. Be sure to look for 92, as 93 and up are different.

 

Thanks derf!

Yes the 1 inch or maybe 26 mm (1 inch is a tight fit) was needed in order to keep the inlet from turning whilst removing the 15/16 inch inlet line nut.

I might just apply some more force to pop it loose. It is on the high pressure side of the line, unless the fuel filter knocks the pressure down, so it must be a strong bushing to avoid the pipe from popping loose.

 

On the old old old S cars, the fuel filter and regulator are separate. The fuel pressure regulator is right up by where you are working and drops the pressure based on vacuum from about 95 PSI to I believe 42 for the DOHC when running so there's a good pressure going in there. I can't think of why it would be loose unless someone prior to you has wrecked the threads. I would also think that if it was truly loose, you'd be spraying gasoline all over the engine bay, eventually setting the car on fire. It may have some built-in flex on purpose due to how much the engine vibrates especially at idle. The inlet fuel line I don't believe is clamped in place but there has to be give somewhere. Some things, although intriguing, are better off left uninvestigated lest you create problems you cannot solve. My four cents

 

yes i took off the bolt that holds the vaccum pressure regulator in place to see if it was holding that nut in, but that was a dead end.

it looks like there maybe an internal pipe that runs inside the aluminum body, the aluminum possibly used as a heat shield,

i do not know if it is possible to dismantle the internals from the aluminum housing, i want to install new injectors anyway, so i will pull that rail for further investigation.

and i will energize the new fuel pump without starting the car to check for leaks.

and i might cobble a pressure fitting to that inlet and use soap to look for bubbles.

 

A few technical corrections:

The pressure regulator sits at the outlet of the fuel rail and stabilizes the pressure at the desired value. Since the fuel system is a flowing return system to the tank, this works out just fine.

Word to the wise. If you remove the fuel pressure regulator, be 100% sure you keep track of the small o ring that is installed beneath the inlet. It gets easily compressed while installed and can be missed during disassembly. Adding a new one on top of it and trying to jam the regulator body into place isn't fun, doesn't work well, leaks most of the time, and is just plain wrong. Ask me how I know.

If you are replacing injectors, be sure you get the right type. They used low impedance and high impedance over the years. Started with one type, switched to the other when they went to OBD2 I believe in 1996.

What is prompting you to do all of this fuel system work? Do you have a fuel leak? One you can smell but have not yet located?

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I'm retired and I haven't anything better to do, welded in an 8 pt roll cage last month,

Looks like that fitting is swedged into the supply pipe, seems pretty tight as it takes a wrench to rotate so we might be alright

Looks like the power steering pump has to come off in order to pop the rail.

And it looks like you have to pull the motor to get the intake off unless you cut a hole in the firewall,

Thanks for the heads-up on the o ring and injectors!