1995 Saturn SL1 Check engine light
#1
1995 Saturn SL1 Check engine light
Hello, I know this topic has been raised many times. I have done everything that has been suggested to other users and I am stuck so I figured I would make my own post and give a rundown of what I have done so far and see what my options are.
So My issue is the Check engine light. I checked the codes myself with a paperclip and it came back with 32. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I started the engine and revved it it 4000 RPM to clear any carbon in the car. The EGR valve appears to be functioning correctly. It moves freely and easily. I replaced it and to be safe I disconnected the battery overnight to clear the code. I had read that after clearing the code it would stay off for a while, but it comes back straight away once the car is drive once.
The next day when taking it for a test drive, the Check Engine light came back on at the same stop light that it always does. It appears to me that it is more of a timed light or possibly that stop light is just where the engine always reaches the temp that triggers the error.
I am not much of a car guy. I'm not very mechanically inclined. I took it to a shop that charged me $75 to tell me I needed new points plugs and wires, and wanted to charge me $430 to do it. Luckily my brother is more knowledgeable when it comes to vehicle maintenance and we did it ourselves at the much reduced cost of $75.
Now we have a loose exhaust pipe somewhere. when coming to a complete stop the engine gets loud and you can her/feel the pipe rattling under the car. I am taking it in Tuesday to get that fixed.
I guess my question would be, Is there any way to test the EGR vale to see if it is functioning properly? It is the linear electric type. I really don't want to spend another $75 to replace it unless I have to. Especially if it could possibly be anything else. And could it be anything else? When searching for solutions to a code 32 the only thing I have seen is to clean/replace the EGR valve.
I just really don't know where to go from here. I just need to get that light off so I can take it in for emissions. It is my mothers car and she is on a fixed income as I am. We don't have a lot of money to throw at this problem. I am afraid to take it anywhere to get looked at because it seems like every time I do I get a "sucker" stamp on my forehead and charged outrageous prices for easy fixes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have a good evening.
So My issue is the Check engine light. I checked the codes myself with a paperclip and it came back with 32. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned it with carb cleaner. I started the engine and revved it it 4000 RPM to clear any carbon in the car. The EGR valve appears to be functioning correctly. It moves freely and easily. I replaced it and to be safe I disconnected the battery overnight to clear the code. I had read that after clearing the code it would stay off for a while, but it comes back straight away once the car is drive once.
The next day when taking it for a test drive, the Check Engine light came back on at the same stop light that it always does. It appears to me that it is more of a timed light or possibly that stop light is just where the engine always reaches the temp that triggers the error.
I am not much of a car guy. I'm not very mechanically inclined. I took it to a shop that charged me $75 to tell me I needed new points plugs and wires, and wanted to charge me $430 to do it. Luckily my brother is more knowledgeable when it comes to vehicle maintenance and we did it ourselves at the much reduced cost of $75.
Now we have a loose exhaust pipe somewhere. when coming to a complete stop the engine gets loud and you can her/feel the pipe rattling under the car. I am taking it in Tuesday to get that fixed.
I guess my question would be, Is there any way to test the EGR vale to see if it is functioning properly? It is the linear electric type. I really don't want to spend another $75 to replace it unless I have to. Especially if it could possibly be anything else. And could it be anything else? When searching for solutions to a code 32 the only thing I have seen is to clean/replace the EGR valve.
I just really don't know where to go from here. I just need to get that light off so I can take it in for emissions. It is my mothers car and she is on a fixed income as I am. We don't have a lot of money to throw at this problem. I am afraid to take it anywhere to get looked at because it seems like every time I do I get a "sucker" stamp on my forehead and charged outrageous prices for easy fixes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Have a good evening.
#2
I don't know what the code 32 is, nor how to check the EGR valve. BUT I do know that you should never, ever go back to the shop that told you you needed a tune up, including points. Most cars have not had points since the early 70's. I'd suggest a good throttle body cleaning, if it were mine.
#4
I don't know what the code 32 is, nor how to check the EGR valve. BUT I do know that you should never, ever go back to the shop that told you you needed a tune up, including points. Most cars have not had points since the early 70's. I'd suggest a good throttle body cleaning, if it were mine.
Coils, sorry.
I checked the Fuse. It appears to be fine. Wouldn't the solenoid give another code along with 32? Sorry I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to these things.
Last edited by Galkaman; 09-02-2013 at 10:51 PM.
#5
Thank you Keith. I managed to sneak it through emissions today so some of the pressure is off. I might take it in when I get some spare cash and have the EGR system checked and find out exactly what the problem is.
#6
Here is a low cash way that may help. Remove the EGR valve and turn it so the ports are pointed up and fill with Seafoam and let sit over night or longer. Spray or pour Seafoam into the passageways that the EGR valve connects to. If they fill up, let it sit overnight as well.
The next day, or day after, spray carburetor cleaner in all the EGR ports, valve body side and engine side. If you get spray back from the engine side ports, then run something that is stiff but flexible down those ports to see if you can clear the blockage. A piece of wire might do but if you can find 1/4" PEX tubing at your hardware store, it would do better.
It will spray back on the valve body side unless you hold the valve open. Do open the valve with the little plastic tube that comes with the carb spray and check the valve face and valve seat for any carbon build up. Scrape it off if you find any.
Usually the gasket can be reused, I never had an issue with reusing them. Total cost, a can of carb cleaner, can of Seafoam and maybe some PEX tubing.
The next day, or day after, spray carburetor cleaner in all the EGR ports, valve body side and engine side. If you get spray back from the engine side ports, then run something that is stiff but flexible down those ports to see if you can clear the blockage. A piece of wire might do but if you can find 1/4" PEX tubing at your hardware store, it would do better.
It will spray back on the valve body side unless you hold the valve open. Do open the valve with the little plastic tube that comes with the carb spray and check the valve face and valve seat for any carbon build up. Scrape it off if you find any.
Usually the gasket can be reused, I never had an issue with reusing them. Total cost, a can of carb cleaner, can of Seafoam and maybe some PEX tubing.
#7
Thank you very much Keith. I will definitely try this. When cleaning the EGR valve initially I was unsure of if it was safe to do anything on the car side of things. I didn't want to puncture anything or cause more damage than I was fixing lol. I really appreciate the help.
#8
I'm pretty sure that if you puncture something, it needed to be punctured. One port should be a short one that goes into either the throttle body or the intake manifold just behind the throttle body. The other may be an external tube, or just goes thru the head to the exhaust ports. (SL2 has an external pipe, SL1 does not)
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