1999 Saturn SL2 Won't Start - Still Cranks
#1
1999 Saturn SL2 Won't Start - Still Cranks
Hey there all,
I bought a '99 K52 (basically an SL2, that's what it's labeled on the title though) almost two months ago, 68k miles on it and driven by an old lady who took good care of it. I've had no major problems with how it drives, etc., except now I'm having issues with it starting. I have a '98 SL2 that I had issues with starting before (starters, fuel pump, ignition module) but lately that one has been fine. Clearly, this isn't my first rodeo.
I just got the fuel pump replaced last week because that's what we thought the problem was, but this morning it decided to do the same thing it did last week. It's cranking, the battery runs just fine, and I can hear the fuel pump running. I'm at a loss at this rate. I've done some searching, and it could be the coolant sensor? I'd like some suggestions, so whenever I can get the car started again and back to the mechanic I could tell them some possibilities. Thanks in advance!
I bought a '99 K52 (basically an SL2, that's what it's labeled on the title though) almost two months ago, 68k miles on it and driven by an old lady who took good care of it. I've had no major problems with how it drives, etc., except now I'm having issues with it starting. I have a '98 SL2 that I had issues with starting before (starters, fuel pump, ignition module) but lately that one has been fine. Clearly, this isn't my first rodeo.
I just got the fuel pump replaced last week because that's what we thought the problem was, but this morning it decided to do the same thing it did last week. It's cranking, the battery runs just fine, and I can hear the fuel pump running. I'm at a loss at this rate. I've done some searching, and it could be the coolant sensor? I'd like some suggestions, so whenever I can get the car started again and back to the mechanic I could tell them some possibilities. Thanks in advance!
#2
There are a whole host of things that may be making it difficult to start the vehicle. Unless you can give us more detailed information about specifically when the issue arises, whether you have fuel at the fuel rail under the hood while the car is cranking, the resistance of the coolant temperature sensor,...., we really don't have any way to logically troubleshoot what's going on. Throwing parts at the car gets expensive and is not our MO on the forum.
We'd like very much to help you solve this, but we need more information.
We'd like very much to help you solve this, but we need more information.
#3
The first thing you need to do is run the codes on it and post them here. That's a great starting point.
#4
How did you determine the fuel pump needed replacing? What testing have you done? Does your mechanic Do more than guess?
#5
#6
You gotta have 4 components for an engine to run, fuel, spark, air and COMPRESSION. You should check for all 4 and let us know which one is missing. It's a process of elimination.
#7
Picked up a 95 SL2 with 200K miles on it for $200. Drove it on the dolly (barely). Car lacked any maintenance for some time.
Car ran okay. It smoked a little at startup. However, it had a "stumble", lacked throttle response, and was having an issue staying running..
I decided to change the fuel filter and do an oil change. The garbage that I poured out of the old fuel filter was plentiful and abundant.
Car starts faster now, Idles fine, now. Throttle response is on spot, now.
Changed the motor oil (which looked and acted like it hadn't been changed in decades) to Rotella T 15w40, plus a can of STP oil additive "silver can" and a Fram 6300 big filter (don't laugh b/c it's a $200 car. I wasn't about to waste a WIX filter not knowing if it was worth it)
Now, yes now, no smoke. No hesitation. No noise. Just a car that needed a little TLC and a few specialty additives to help fight the war of attrition.
Added the Lucas fuel system treatment (with lubricant) from the big jug, and a little 2-stroke outboard oil to the fuel tank with fresh fuel.
This was the best thing that I could have done. Now I have a $200 car that came with a can of SeaFoam, a gallon of Havoline 10w30 Depositshield, a new bottle of DOT 3, and A NEW BATTERY!
Going to service the manual transaxle for curiosity's sake and go back with Dex 3 (High Mileage) and a little snake oil for stabilization.
Also, pulled the IAC and found it crudded over with carbon. Sprayed it off with carb cleaner and seems to function better now. The carbon build-up made it stick in two positions. Closed, and slightly open.
I hope this helps anyone that just wants to stay mobile and not have to spend 65K on a new car.
Your results may vary, but do this to everything I drag home, and has worked for me for 100's of thousands of miles.
Car ran okay. It smoked a little at startup. However, it had a "stumble", lacked throttle response, and was having an issue staying running..
I decided to change the fuel filter and do an oil change. The garbage that I poured out of the old fuel filter was plentiful and abundant.
Car starts faster now, Idles fine, now. Throttle response is on spot, now.
Changed the motor oil (which looked and acted like it hadn't been changed in decades) to Rotella T 15w40, plus a can of STP oil additive "silver can" and a Fram 6300 big filter (don't laugh b/c it's a $200 car. I wasn't about to waste a WIX filter not knowing if it was worth it)
Now, yes now, no smoke. No hesitation. No noise. Just a car that needed a little TLC and a few specialty additives to help fight the war of attrition.
Added the Lucas fuel system treatment (with lubricant) from the big jug, and a little 2-stroke outboard oil to the fuel tank with fresh fuel.
This was the best thing that I could have done. Now I have a $200 car that came with a can of SeaFoam, a gallon of Havoline 10w30 Depositshield, a new bottle of DOT 3, and A NEW BATTERY!
Going to service the manual transaxle for curiosity's sake and go back with Dex 3 (High Mileage) and a little snake oil for stabilization.
Also, pulled the IAC and found it crudded over with carbon. Sprayed it off with carb cleaner and seems to function better now. The carbon build-up made it stick in two positions. Closed, and slightly open.
I hope this helps anyone that just wants to stay mobile and not have to spend 65K on a new car.
Your results may vary, but do this to everything I drag home, and has worked for me for 100's of thousands of miles.
#8
Appreciate the info.
Please start your own thread. Hijacking not appreciated in general.
Posting your vehicle travails under someone else's abandoned post isn't really helpful.
Thread closed
Please start your own thread. Hijacking not appreciated in general.
Posting your vehicle travails under someone else's abandoned post isn't really helpful.
Thread closed
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