2000 SW2 auto lost reverse
#21
I've actually used the Q-Bond before and it's pretty damn good stuff. I had a leaking connection on a dishwasher and couldn't find the one small part I needed to fix it with, so tried the Q-Bond. It was still leak free when I sold the house last year and moved to hell. I was holding up to the high water and dryer element heat of a dishwasher, so I'd say go ahead and try it. It's a small investment and I THINK it will last long enough for you to save enough to get another transmission from a junkyard.
#22
back on the road for awhile
Today I went ahead and tried the Q-Bond approach. I cleaned up the case cover and took the burrs off that the rubbing clutch pack had created. I did notice that the cylindrical part that one of the tubes goes into, the one with the two o-rings, had some wear on one side where the case was flexing and allowing the input gear to move off center. I'm not sure how long this will last but after I used the Q-Bond and put it all back together I don't have any leaks and reverse and second gear are back. So it's kind of a reserved yay! I figure I'm going to have to baby this thing to keep the stresses on the case cover to a minimum. Some additional good news (and it's only now that I can be absolutely sure) is that the used valve body I put on there is indeed a good one. No reverse slam at all.
I must note that I did not use any sealant on the new case gasket. I did not change the fluid or the filter, only brought the level back up to normal. I would have liked to do more but this is what I can do for now. That truck has put me so far behind financially with all the gas that thing uses that I'm in survival mode now.
Here's some pictures of the "fixed" cover. Not much to see but at least I can't see the clutch pack through the cover anymore. Also a pic of the 23mm 12 point deep socket I modified for tightening the nut.
I must note that I did not use any sealant on the new case gasket. I did not change the fluid or the filter, only brought the level back up to normal. I would have liked to do more but this is what I can do for now. That truck has put me so far behind financially with all the gas that thing uses that I'm in survival mode now.
Here's some pictures of the "fixed" cover. Not much to see but at least I can't see the clutch pack through the cover anymore. Also a pic of the 23mm 12 point deep socket I modified for tightening the nut.
Last edited by jamnar; 03-29-2016 at 10:38 PM. Reason: added pic of modified 23mm socket
#23
Made 3 trips totaling 70 miles today. The first two trips second gear engaged abruptly and 3rd or 4th (not sure which since the torque converter locks up somewhere in there) was a little cushy. The last trip every shift was smooth as silk. I had forgotten how nice this transmission is. At the end of the day I checked and the fluid level did not drop and there are no leaks so the Q-Bond must be holding. I don't know how long this will last but at least I'm not hemorrhaging money in gas driving that truck.
#24
Good good good in the area.
I have a hard time believing ANYTHING would seal a crack that long and stand up to heat, vibration, and hot tranny fluid (if the crack went all the way through........)
Don't misunderstand me, I certainly hope it works for you, and it is another tool in the forum's pocket for dealing w such issues.
I have a hard time believing ANYTHING would seal a crack that long and stand up to heat, vibration, and hot tranny fluid (if the crack went all the way through........)
Don't misunderstand me, I certainly hope it works for you, and it is another tool in the forum's pocket for dealing w such issues.
#25
@Derf, the crack was indeed all the way through.
If you look at the first tranny picture above, you can actually see the clutch shell through the case cover near the top of the crack. That's about a 3/16th inch opening at the widest part. The rest of the circular run of the crack was fully separated and warped outward a few thousandths. There are two vertical hairline cracks going outward at the ends of the arc that, while not gaped open do indeed go all the way through the thickness of the case. I've added a picture with the crack highlighted in red where is goes all the way through. If I had not seen this stuff work with my own eyes I would have (in fact I still do) had trouble believing the Q-Bond would work.
Q-Bond is a two part product with a filler and cyanoacrylate(superglue) based binder. The powder is like fine sand and after cleaning the case around the crack with coleman fuel, contact cleaner and acetone (in that order) I rubbed it into the crack, packing it in the best I could. I had to back the crack with tape to hold the powder in the crack. Then I simply dribbled the liquid superglue onto it and watched it wick into the powder and all the way through the crack. It actually built up a layer on the inside of the case too. Not too much but the glue is now holding from both sides. It cured in less than a minute and I was pulling off the tape and starting reassembly.
I've driven it to and from work again today which is a 60 mile round trip with 1/3 twisty curvy back roads and the other 2/3rds highway miles at 65 to 70plus mph. Got home, checked the stick and no loss of fluid. No drips underneath.
Even if this stuff gives out tomorrow I think I'm going to permanently add it alongside the vice grips, baling wire and duct tape in my toolbox.
If you look at the first tranny picture above, you can actually see the clutch shell through the case cover near the top of the crack. That's about a 3/16th inch opening at the widest part. The rest of the circular run of the crack was fully separated and warped outward a few thousandths. There are two vertical hairline cracks going outward at the ends of the arc that, while not gaped open do indeed go all the way through the thickness of the case. I've added a picture with the crack highlighted in red where is goes all the way through. If I had not seen this stuff work with my own eyes I would have (in fact I still do) had trouble believing the Q-Bond would work.
Q-Bond is a two part product with a filler and cyanoacrylate(superglue) based binder. The powder is like fine sand and after cleaning the case around the crack with coleman fuel, contact cleaner and acetone (in that order) I rubbed it into the crack, packing it in the best I could. I had to back the crack with tape to hold the powder in the crack. Then I simply dribbled the liquid superglue onto it and watched it wick into the powder and all the way through the crack. It actually built up a layer on the inside of the case too. Not too much but the glue is now holding from both sides. It cured in less than a minute and I was pulling off the tape and starting reassembly.
I've driven it to and from work again today which is a 60 mile round trip with 1/3 twisty curvy back roads and the other 2/3rds highway miles at 65 to 70plus mph. Got home, checked the stick and no loss of fluid. No drips underneath.
Even if this stuff gives out tomorrow I think I'm going to permanently add it alongside the vice grips, baling wire and duct tape in my toolbox.
#26
Drove it again today through pouring rain and it did just fine. This afternoon I checked and still no leaks! Good news is that I got my hands on a replacement side cover and clutch pack today thru a craigslist ad. I may just wait until it fails before I replace them.
#27
Nice.
But just remember if it does "fail", that may not be the only damage that results from the failure. That would leave you in a jam.
I would recommend that you fix what ails your tranny now to hopefully prevent any future issues from developing.
But just remember if it does "fail", that may not be the only damage that results from the failure. That would leave you in a jam.
I would recommend that you fix what ails your tranny now to hopefully prevent any future issues from developing.
#28
Yeah, it occurred to me after I posted that it could be the clutch pack that fails. That would probably leave me stranded and kicking myself (again). I might try to fix it this weekend if I can make time.