it does engage but it only blows cold air for a few minutes. then bows luke warm air the rest of the time, i'm not worried about a/c though just dont want my car to keep over heating and eventually causing other issues

 

if the a/c clutch engages but the fan does not come on, this leads me to believe it is a wiring issue either with the fan motor, the fan relay, or the MAYBE the ECTS connection to the PCM.

When you turn on the A/C, the PCM commands the fan to turn on if the A/C low/press/highpress switch is not open and the the fan stays on while the AC is on.

Since your fan is not turning on at all in the above scenario but the motor itself works, voltage/current isn't getting to the fan. The question is why.

I would suspect a bad connection from the motor wiring to the underhood fuse box or an issue with the fan relay socket or the wiring underneath it.

You may also have a bad ECTS or connector, but as far as I know the fan operation with the A/C on is totally independent of this reading.

I'd start tracing for continuity backwards starting from the fan harness. Don't overlook the connectors themselves.

Please list car model and year and add to your signature in your user profile.

 

OKay i will check all that out, thank you so much, and as for making my car modle year all that as my signiture i dont see where to do that at.

 

User CP -- top left of the forum header screen under the pic of the car. click edit signature

 

Okay i found it. lol Thanks again, i will post tomorrow and let you know, it's starting to get dark here in Indianapolis.

 

Do you have a volt meter or a VOM?

Pull the fan relay and look of the schematic of the relay, it is somewhere on the relay. There should be 4 pins on the relay, two are for the coil and two are for the contacts.

See which pins are for the contacts. If you have a volt meter or a VOM, check for 12 volts on the sockets where those pins go in the underhood fuse box, one of them should have 12 volts. If you don't have a volt meter, then take a small piece of wire, or a paper clip and short the two sockets together. Hold the wire with pliers because it will get very hot, very quick.

If the fan motor runs, then the issue is with the controller, which in your case is the PCM. For this you will need a wiring diagram. I don't have mine anymore.

If you don't have the 12V on either socket, then the issue is between the underhood fuse panel and the battery. If you do have 12V on one socket, then short the sockets together and if motor doesn't run, then the issue is in the wiring between the underhood fuse panel and the motor.

 

Thanks for adding this level of detail for the testing Keith

 

I also had the same problem. Switched fuses, no luck, tested for and had power at the plugin for the fan motor. I took off the fan motor assembly and for grins hot wired the fan motor to the batter. The fan ran so I plugged the connection back in and the motor worked. Saved a few bucks.

 

Try replacing the coolant temp sensor. Like any electrical system sensors go out

 

Hi,

I'm the ghost of LJ57.

I started this thread 10 years ago to solve my own issue.
Over the years, others tagged onto mine because they had similar issues but not quite the same as mine.
I had a bad fan motor.
Some other dude had dirty contacts on his fan motor and connector. They got swept clean during removal and reinsertion after a successful bench test and worked fine.

My problem, AC clutch engages but only blows cold air, then warm, says that, if true, AC pressure is above low press switch cutoff but no by how much. Enough to not trigger the switch. When driving, if the fan is not spinning, as you drive you are pushing cold air across the condenser and partially cooling things but when you stop moving, everything heats back up due to 0 airflow across the condenser. This will happen even without the AC clutch engaged so I think I may have been wrong in the info I gave.

I think my AC pressure was below the lower limit and the low pressure switch was triggered, cutting current to the compressor clutch. If I had checked the hi low AC pressures I would have seen that ti never was turning on and the low side was too low.
When I added refrigerant to to the system, once I crossed the lowe pressure limit, both the compressor and cooling fan would have kicked in. The mod writing this up has personally experienced that, So if I had provided correct details I would have gotten a diff recommendation.

Which would still NOT be to repolace the ECTS.

Why? Because we don't encourage "Shotgunning" parts on the forum,
We diagnose things based on input provided, then make recommendations. Recommendations are only as good as the info provided

1) Welcome to the forum
2) Please do not respond to 10 yer old threads (yes I know it's been hijacked to a much more recent date)
3) Please do not suggest replacemernt of parts with no explanation.-- shotguning parts gets expensive -- for OTHER people - so don't recommend stuff unless you can justify it by troubleshooting.
4Thread closed