'98 SL2: Turns Over, Won't Start
#11
I thought that living in the snow belt was hard on batteries. The extreme cold and winter weather and the words Sears Die Hard were almost magic. Occasionally a battery would go bad and generally in the middle of the winter when you needed it the most.
I believed that until;
I moved to Phoenix AZ and its routinely hot day's and about a third of the year over 100 degrees.
Heat kills batteries. The extremely durable construction of a legendary Sears Die Hard work against the life of the battery, the mass of it can not dissipate the heat and when they quit? They rarely give a warning of doing so. The best battery to have is the cheapest. 2 years and they are dead is the rule of thumb and the cheapest of them dissipate the heat the best. Generally they are the ones with thin light weight cases.
The plus side of the heat? No rust. And of course the down side is plastic and rubber don't like it very much.
I believed that until;
I moved to Phoenix AZ and its routinely hot day's and about a third of the year over 100 degrees.
Heat kills batteries. The extremely durable construction of a legendary Sears Die Hard work against the life of the battery, the mass of it can not dissipate the heat and when they quit? They rarely give a warning of doing so. The best battery to have is the cheapest. 2 years and they are dead is the rule of thumb and the cheapest of them dissipate the heat the best. Generally they are the ones with thin light weight cases.
The plus side of the heat? No rust. And of course the down side is plastic and rubber don't like it very much.
#12
Just a note here, and an explanation. It is times like this when your car is down and it is a mystery as to why, you are unable to get it anywhere to read the codes. A piece of information that is so valuable in determining what is going on and highly recommended that it be done!
OR
Some one recommends to get a Chilton or Motors or Hayden's service manual for the car. You see them at the help section in your auto parts store for about $25.00 U.S. or so but you don't have one because you never needed one.
This is the time it should have been done.
It is possible the age of your Saturn is such that the Service Codes, at least the basic ones can be read out by going through a sequential diddling of your ignition key and the check engine light will BLINK out the code numbers.
A bit of a pain but it works and the instructions are in the service manual you did not buy.
I have more than one car. 2 of them give the capability of doing that. My Saturn and an installation of a fuel injection engine management computer on a 1980 model. I do not have a scan tool, but I have used that self test diagnostic which saved me a ton of money and aggravation because that capability is there.
Today's inexpensive transportation cars are complex as heck. Getting old and being cheap did not change that. In fact probably the getting cheap part is based on the previous owner not spending money to have the car diagnosed so it was sold, dumped or traded for something else that did not need diagnostics yet.
My Chrysler, new in 2007 I don't think has that feature, nor at the moment have I needed it. But the very first time it acts up I will purchase a modern scan tool that gives decent capability to read the codes on it, and all the way back to my Saturn too along with the odds anything I buy in the next few years. The odds are that if I do that, buying that tool and using it will have it paid for the very first time I use it. It will keep me from buying parts I don't need.
OR
Some one recommends to get a Chilton or Motors or Hayden's service manual for the car. You see them at the help section in your auto parts store for about $25.00 U.S. or so but you don't have one because you never needed one.
This is the time it should have been done.
It is possible the age of your Saturn is such that the Service Codes, at least the basic ones can be read out by going through a sequential diddling of your ignition key and the check engine light will BLINK out the code numbers.
A bit of a pain but it works and the instructions are in the service manual you did not buy.
I have more than one car. 2 of them give the capability of doing that. My Saturn and an installation of a fuel injection engine management computer on a 1980 model. I do not have a scan tool, but I have used that self test diagnostic which saved me a ton of money and aggravation because that capability is there.
Today's inexpensive transportation cars are complex as heck. Getting old and being cheap did not change that. In fact probably the getting cheap part is based on the previous owner not spending money to have the car diagnosed so it was sold, dumped or traded for something else that did not need diagnostics yet.
My Chrysler, new in 2007 I don't think has that feature, nor at the moment have I needed it. But the very first time it acts up I will purchase a modern scan tool that gives decent capability to read the codes on it, and all the way back to my Saturn too along with the odds anything I buy in the next few years. The odds are that if I do that, buying that tool and using it will have it paid for the very first time I use it. It will keep me from buying parts I don't need.
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