Go for it. Just don't go crazy

 

I don't recommend the teflon tape at all. The new sensor should come with a sealer in the threads already. Teflon could interfere with the electrical conductivity of the sensor and you'll be back to square one. Don't use it.

 

One of the two wires on the device is the "ground" or "common", not the block, so the tape should not interfere with the reading.

How bout ya put it in without. If it leaks, pull it and use some teflon tape.

It's all up to you.
Only you can make this decision.
No one else can make this decision for you.
It's squarely on your shoulders.
You must consider all the information available and make the choice most comfortable for you.

The best decision is the one you make that ends up not being wrong.

There is no one right answer.

Dude --- let us know what happens...

 

Ok, here's the latest on this situation from over the weekend...
I located the ECTS, and it is a lot harder to get to than Howard's pics...I have attached a couple of pics of my underhood to try to explain why I am going to have a mechanic do mine...


It's just buried a little too deep for me to attempt...I know, I know, the puss factor is high in this one...
Meanwhile, I have replaced the fan relay and then voided the cooling system of clear water and replaced with 50/50 anti-freeze blend, then ran the car and got it up to the temp where the cooling fan should kick on, and it did not...

BUT:

While I'm sitting in the car with the motor running and the temp gauge showing a little over half (half-way is the usual kick-in point of the fan) I decide to push in the a/c button and turn the dash lever to low fan to activate the under-hood fan to cool it down (as I already know this works), so I push in the a/c button and the under-hood fan comes on immediately, before I can activate the dash switch for the cabin fan, so I stop, and think, "Dang, that's weird...usually the underhood fan doesn't activate until I turn the dash fan on to activate the a/c compressor"...so I let it run for a minute without turning on the fan switch on the dash, and the fan cycles off as soon as the engine cools down to half-way between 1/4 and half, just like it's supposed to!
WTF is that all about?? Anybody got a clue?

 

sounds whack to me. Did the light on the ac switch illuminate when you pressed the button?

Get a firm quote from the mechanic before he starts. It's like a 1/4 hour labor. Anything more than a 1/2 and you're getting foicked.

 

The light in the button did come on, yes...

I suppose I could have the offspring drive with the ac button always pressed in to keep things working, but I'm just not built that way...I need everything to work like it's supposed to.

 

By the way, a little tidbit for anybody that has never had to let the contents of the radiator out:
the plastic-eared plug turns counter-clockwise(opens) only a fat notch (click) and then you pull the plastic-eared plug out with pliers until fluid begins flowing out the bottom of the plug. To seal again push plug in to stop flow and turn one fat notch (click) to right...
I almost destroyed my plug thinking it had to unscrew completely...got lucky and stepped back and surveyed the situation, thinking there was no way this thing could be engineered that well in other ways, and be so difficult to operate in this one...started push/pulling and voila!

 

if the light on the button came on, then that circuit was closed and sent the signal to the pcm to kick in the compressor and fan. Why it would do this without the blower motor fan engaged? Dunno.

 

Me either...it has always been inop when the fan switch was off before...I'm getting worried about a corrupt circuit here or something...hopefully it is just a side-glitch brought on by a faulty ECTS or pigtail, or both...
Also, it turned the fan on but did not kick the compressor in...after the fan shut off automatically when the temp came down I bumped the fan switch up to the first position and the compressor and fan both activated normally...

 

Getting weirder. I always assumed that engagement of that button triggered a PCM request for both the compressor and fan to turn on. Compressor not turning on until blower motor also spinning makes more sense though. So I was 2/3 right ---sorta.

But that doesn't help solve your issue.
Sorry but never heard of this situation.

Was it bizarre like this before you swapped out the relay?

Keith -- what does your FSM say about this?