Ok, I did a search and there's plenty of info online on what to check for if my 95 SL1 is running hot only on idle and in slow traffic (going close to red), but fine at highways speeds and when I run the heater. (check ac fan, relay, fuses, etc.)

But in addition to the above symptoms, my coolant light is blinking and I do see the coolant level below that top line in the reservoir and it is a little murky, so should I try to top it off first to see if that helps, or go ahead with a flush and refill? Should I get it professionally flushed, or will a home job by draining the radiator and using a hose to run water through the system do just as good of a job?

If it's the water pump, is that fairly easy to replace, no belt removal involved?

Anything else I should look out for? Thanks in advance!

 

I just checked and it looks like the fan, there seems to be only one fan and that's the one at the radiator, is not spinning. From what I understand, that should be on all the time when the AC is running? I poked at it with my finger and then it kicked in, but seems weak, turned off the car, then turned it on again and then it won't kick in at all when I poked at it again, seems spurious. Will a low AC charge contribute to that not spinning as well? Also, what about the ECTS?

Can I just get a replacement motor online or do I have to buy the whole fan assembly? I'm not really a pick-and-pull guy at the yard I'll still take your answers about the flushing part, as I still may do it since I'm working on the cooling system anyways.

 

Hi there, Ngrome --

If the fan didn't run until you "poked it with your finger", then I'd replace the fan. A low charge in the A/C won't affect the fan.

You can scour eBay or CraigsList for a replacement, or ply a buddy with a 6-pak to do your leg work at a U-Pull-It yard. Some GM dealerships may still have an unused fan in their backroom, but make sure the dealership has at least one tech who has a nodding acquaintance with the Saturn series cars.

Yes, the ECTS can affect the fan operation, but from what you show in this thread, I would not suspect it at this time (course, this is IMHO). Save the $40 bucks or so for later

 

Thanks Ocean, someone referred me to an online source called Car Parts Wholesale and it had universal fan/shroud assemblies for as low as $56 and fan only for as low as $18, with direct fit costing a lot more of course. There's one that's an OE replacement with the whole shroud assembly for $56, might just be worth it rather than getting a direct fit fan only, no shroud, for over $100. I better keep the connectors from the old fan, in case I have to do some splicing...

Oh, and Merry Christmas!

 

sounds like fan motor.

Low charge on A/C and the "interaction" with fan operation is as follows:

Fan is designed to come on when A/C compressor kicks in.
If A/C system is below the minimum pressure, the low pressure switch in the refrig line is open and the compressor doesn't kick in -- and therefore the fan does not turn on.

So low A/C charge does not itself "affect" the fan's operation

 

Before I ran off and bought a junkyard part considering this is a 1995 car I would check with your local autoparts store such as NAPA or CarQuest for a fan motor replacement. I have bought motors seperatly. I have also bought assemblies that way. They are not hard to change. By the way I have also bought junkyard parts too, but the one thing i would not buy? A one size fits all generic unit that is advetised as fitting up to xxxx. Unlike or mayby like panti hose, one size does not fit all and rarely fits anything. In 1995 they had "special" anti-freeze that was not compatible with antifreeze sold at the time. That has changed over the years but it does not mean that your car has not be neglected or improperly serviced over the years. The sensor in the tank that detects water level is prone to not working correctly if sludged up. Sludge is generated by mixing the 2 anti-freeze solutions together. Or just cooling system neglect.
It might be some what of a problem if the radiator is also sludged thus requiring professional service to get it clean. You might be lucky and be able to flush things by dumping the coolant and refilling with water and running the car and then dumping the fluid again. 2 or 3 times of this approach may work for, it has for me. Remember to keep your heater on full during this, it too is part of your cooling system.
Most of the time.
The radiator has plastic side tanks. This design is known for leaking as a function of time. My 94 is, and will require a new radiator to fix it.
The filling tank has the sensor in it. I have cleaned mine out a few times. I have needed to, I own if for 16 years. I need to do it again. As to proper antifreeze to refill from scratch? As far as I know. It makes no difference. I use Prestone or Peak. Both companies make a gallon jug with either full of anti-freeze or half full of water. I sort of resent buying something half full of water when I get it out of a faucet at the house for free. To each there own. But I would refill with a 50/50 solution of anti-freeze and water, either buy it that way or mix your own. All Anti-Freeze made today is formulated to mix with "any color" anti-freeze. Read the lable on the container.
How do you get 50/50 when there is coolant in the engine block? If you have flushed by filling, running and dumping, by the 3rd time, everything is pretty much pure water so just leave what is in the block and don't worry about it and fill with pure anti-freeze until full.
if you are using 50/50 anti-freeze and water, have it checked to make sure it is cold enough to take freezing weather. When done servicing.
Where I live I worry less about hitting freezing weather, it is above triple digits a full 1/3 if the year.