I am about to go through the rebuild of the electric window mechanisms in my 1994 SC2. It is not the first time on the drivers side, it is the third, but the passenger side has never been apart.
As this is a repair, this is a right up.
It is imperative if tackling this job that you purchase a Chiltons, or equivalent repair manual for your car. It will tell you how to get things apart with out damaging things.
There is a lot of plastic in these cars, that was the selling point when new. 21 years later the plastic can be brittle, difficult to work with and break easily depending of course where the car has lived.
Other things needed are the repair parts.
A lift mechanism, the last two I purchased were from Saturn Parts through a GM dealer that would order them. In my case a local Chevrolet dealer. Price range in the area of $200.00.
OR
A motor than can be installed. Purchased through Rock auto on line for something around $50.00.
Both parts will require the removal of the outer door skin for access to the window and the inner door panel for access to the mounting hardware for the window mechanism with the motor installed.
Once again my concern is seeing to it the plastic parts can be removed with out breaking them due to the brittle condition.
TO BE CONTINUED LATER.

 

There's a youtube video on removing the door handle---never would've guessed how.

IIRC, both outer n inner have to come off. Make life easier and make it a 2 person job

 

Removing the outer door skin, now this is a coupe so only one door per side, is more easily done if you have a good selection of 1/4 in drive sockets, a wrench, a long (6 inches or better extension or enough that add up to at least that, a universal and a 1/4 inch socket and a set of small bits that include a #30 hex bit. These will let you reach the bolts that hold the outer door skin to the door frame. Access to the lift mechanism is in part through the outer door skin.
The 1/4 in wrench, extension and universal with the 1.4 inch socket let you use the #30 hex bit on the bolts that are hidden deeply into the cavities exposed when the door is open. And after 20 years or so of not being touched it may take a gentle but firm hand to remove the bolts with out breaking the plastic retaining brackets cast into the door. Probably even more so if rust is involved. The rear view mirror must be unfastened and let to hang loose so as to free up the lip at the top of the door so the skin can be removed. A Philips screw driver for the one Philips head screw holding an interior trim piece in place. Removing that exposes some foam rubber that covers 3 10mm nuts that hold the mirror on. They must be removed and the mirror can hang free. The chrome strip can be slid towards the rear of the door that serves as trim at the top of the door and a clip that hold the door skin on. The door handle is removed by lifting up on the handles as iff opening the door and there is a plastic pin that neets to be removed that fastens the cosmetic handle on to the working mechanism. Once the pin is removed, the handle can be slid to the rear of the door IF you have held it open far enough. The pin can be removed by carefully worrying it free with the use of a pair of side cutters if you are care not to cut the pin or I made a small removing tool by filing a notch is a thin putty knife used solely for removing things like this. Once the outer skin is removed the working mechanism can be seen and it becomes obvious why you need to also remove the interior door panel from the other side of the door.
And in as an old serial movie, to be continued at a later date.

 

On removing the door handle, it is indeed a plastic fastener and there is a small pin in the middle of it. Using a very small drift pin, about the size of pencil lead, the small pin is driven up through the larger pin. Once through it the larger pin can be easily removed from the handle brackets and the handle moves toward the rear of the car to take it off. Of course you are holding it open all this time.
Once the fasteners holding the door skin are removed and it is far easily done with a long quarter inch socket drive and extension (about 6+ inches long) and an adapter that allows the torx bit to be used. The next thing is to remove the rear view mirror.
If you have a 10 mm deep socket for your 1/4 inch wrench set the three nuts holding the mirror on are easily removed. The mirror will come off the body and expose a connector that can be unplugged. The mirror is now carefully stored in the trunk.
The chrome trim on the window belt line that removing the mirror exposes the one end it held in place, a small block of wood and a dead blow hammer can drift the chrome trim towards the back of the car. Once removed the door skin can come off and get stored there too. You can now see the lift mechanism to work on it.