New purchase sl1 automatic
#1
New purchase sl1 automatic
Hi,
I just purchased 99 sl1. automatic. car is mostly clean and seems to run well. any suggestions on what I need to do before putting this car into service? No check engine light on. I have owned Saturn's before but never an SL 1
Thanks. Car has 125k. Miles
I just purchased 99 sl1. automatic. car is mostly clean and seems to run well. any suggestions on what I need to do before putting this car into service? No check engine light on. I have owned Saturn's before but never an SL 1
Thanks. Car has 125k. Miles
#5
In all honesty, I was being a little flippant here, not that I am backing off what I said. You do need to drive it to get to know it, but if you are not mechanically inclined yourself, then find a good independent mechanic and take it there for its next scheduled oil change. The mechanic should check all you fluids for you and advise you if any of them look like they need to be changed.
One thing about the Saturn, it was designed for the owner to easily check all fluids themselves. Your owners manual is vary good at explaining how to do this. If the oil is black, get it changed immediately and then adhere to the oil change schedule after that. If the transmission fluid is anything but a clear bright red, get it changed, but not flushed, just a drain and refill. Do not let anyone talk you into a flush, they do more damage than good.
The coolant should be a clear color. If it still had Dexcool, it will be pink. If it has been changed to another type coolant, it will be green, yellow or red. If it is cloudy or brown, it needs to be changed completely right now. If it is green, even a clear green, then I would be considering a coolant change. Some greens are OK, some are not.
The reason is that GM cars require a phosphate free coolant, some of the green coolants have phosphate in them. again, no flush, just drain the radiator AND the block. There is a block drain just below the oil filter. Refill with either Dexcool or any universal Long Life antifreeze, either a 50/50 premix or mix your own with full strength and distilled water at up to a 2:1 concentration of antifreeze and distilled water. I like the 2:1 because it gives additional corrosion protection.
If you have ABS brakes and the brake fluid is a dark color, it should be flushed, and this is the only flush I recommend for a car. The only other flush I recommend for a vehicle would be the toilet on an RV. If you do not have ABS, then I would get the brakes flushed when it needs new pads on the front.
BTW, do not top off the brake master cylinder. The fluid level in the master cylinder indicates how much pad is left on the brakes. If it is down near the minimum level line on the master cylinder, then get the brake pads inspected and do not be surprised if you need new brake pads or advised that you will need them soon.
Last thing, it is consistent maintenance that is the key to a long life with your vehicle. Check you oil level at least every 1k miles, every other fill up would be better. About once every three months, check all you fluids, most you can see through the translucent reservoirs so it is easy to do, and check your tire pressure at that time. Tire pressure is important for long tire life and fuel economy. I run my tires at 35 psi, but they usually drop to 30-32 by the time I check them each time. I get about 100k+ miles to a set.
One more thing, Dexcool is not the evil coolant that it has a reputation for. But any universal Long Life coolant (mixes with any color) is just as good so just compare costs. Its a purely economic decision, don't let anyone scare you into doing something with horror stories about Dexcool. And if the mechanic comes up with about $1000 in urgently needed repairs, find another mechanic. That seems to be the magic number the dishonest mechanics all shoot for.
One thing about the Saturn, it was designed for the owner to easily check all fluids themselves. Your owners manual is vary good at explaining how to do this. If the oil is black, get it changed immediately and then adhere to the oil change schedule after that. If the transmission fluid is anything but a clear bright red, get it changed, but not flushed, just a drain and refill. Do not let anyone talk you into a flush, they do more damage than good.
The coolant should be a clear color. If it still had Dexcool, it will be pink. If it has been changed to another type coolant, it will be green, yellow or red. If it is cloudy or brown, it needs to be changed completely right now. If it is green, even a clear green, then I would be considering a coolant change. Some greens are OK, some are not.
The reason is that GM cars require a phosphate free coolant, some of the green coolants have phosphate in them. again, no flush, just drain the radiator AND the block. There is a block drain just below the oil filter. Refill with either Dexcool or any universal Long Life antifreeze, either a 50/50 premix or mix your own with full strength and distilled water at up to a 2:1 concentration of antifreeze and distilled water. I like the 2:1 because it gives additional corrosion protection.
If you have ABS brakes and the brake fluid is a dark color, it should be flushed, and this is the only flush I recommend for a car. The only other flush I recommend for a vehicle would be the toilet on an RV. If you do not have ABS, then I would get the brakes flushed when it needs new pads on the front.
BTW, do not top off the brake master cylinder. The fluid level in the master cylinder indicates how much pad is left on the brakes. If it is down near the minimum level line on the master cylinder, then get the brake pads inspected and do not be surprised if you need new brake pads or advised that you will need them soon.
Last thing, it is consistent maintenance that is the key to a long life with your vehicle. Check you oil level at least every 1k miles, every other fill up would be better. About once every three months, check all you fluids, most you can see through the translucent reservoirs so it is easy to do, and check your tire pressure at that time. Tire pressure is important for long tire life and fuel economy. I run my tires at 35 psi, but they usually drop to 30-32 by the time I check them each time. I get about 100k+ miles to a set.
One more thing, Dexcool is not the evil coolant that it has a reputation for. But any universal Long Life coolant (mixes with any color) is just as good so just compare costs. Its a purely economic decision, don't let anyone scare you into doing something with horror stories about Dexcool. And if the mechanic comes up with about $1000 in urgently needed repairs, find another mechanic. That seems to be the magic number the dishonest mechanics all shoot for.
#6
Thank-you for the rapid replies.
I guess my biggest concern is that the cars history is unknown. Fluids were all topped off and clean. Body/interior relativly ok. Needs a battery, which i have. No check engine light.
I drove car around the neighborhood, had good throttle responce, no unusual noises.
A one owner car for 500 bucks.
I have owned only two other Saturns, both twin cam.
I expect to do as recommended, change oil first, followed by tune up. Hope to realize many years of service.
I guess my biggest concern is that the cars history is unknown. Fluids were all topped off and clean. Body/interior relativly ok. Needs a battery, which i have. No check engine light.
I drove car around the neighborhood, had good throttle responce, no unusual noises.
A one owner car for 500 bucks.
I have owned only two other Saturns, both twin cam.
I expect to do as recommended, change oil first, followed by tune up. Hope to realize many years of service.
#8
Pretty much the best of take care of it has been said. The only thing I can add is use the heaviest grade oil you can use for the temperature zone you live in. A 10W40 during the summer and a 10W30 during the winter if you don't know.
A 5W20 never unless you are living where -15 degree's F is a warm summer day.
A 5W20 never unless you are living where -15 degree's F is a warm summer day.
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