No, i didn't do the compresion test I dont have a guage on my air valve tool. Do you know if the check engine light is on is a visual pass or fail, or does it fail because it throws a code to the smog station computer?

 

It is definitely a fail if it throws a P (performance) code. I think you can throw B (body) codes without failing.

It is also definitely a fail if the SES (MIL= malfunction indicator lamp) status in real life does not match what the PCM says it should be -- that's how people who disconnect the bulb get nailed....

Hope that answers your question in a less roundabout way than I typed it

 

I did the compression check today from left to right they read as follows
170psi,130psi,175psi,150psi

 

oiy crap -- # 2 and 4 are awfully low -- I'd say rings - since you just did head gasket....and I think we now know where your misfire is rooted.....

 

What do you think would be a better idea tearing this motor apart again, or buying a used motor and putting it in? Im dreading both. I just put this motor back together.

 

well, if you rebuild the lower end and do the valves and valve guides on your existing motor, you at least know what you have (and what you started with). I'm not saying used motors are bad -- but you never know if the original owner changed the oil, let it overheat, etc...so it's more of the unknown -- and with S cars you throw in the spectre of seized oil control rings.... so the choice is yours.

If you do choose to rebuild it, get your parts ASAP before they get more expensive and harder to find.

 

I don't like the down time associated with rebuilds. I have a nice origional 97 dohc with 45k that can be started and tested in the wrecked car it came in. Nobody puts these engines together like the factory does.

 

having had one partially rebuilt by a dealer, I must agree with Hos...