Running on 3 cylinders but it's not a Metro.
#1
Running on 3 cylinders but it's not a Metro.
2000 Saturn SW2 with auto and 259K miles.
When I had it for sale I wasn't worried about long term or passing inspection because I figured it would be gone before any of that became an issue.
However, since this Saturn and I appear to be stuck with each other (see my last post in the classified section for details) I guess I need to do some maintenance that I have been putting off.
Of the many things I will need to do is finally fix the miss that it developed a couple years ago when I let it run low on oil.
I have not done a compression test yet (I just bought the tool) it clearly has low compression on at least one cylinder just based on the sound of the starter when cranking.
At idle it runs as if it is only firing on 2 or 3 cylinders. Just yesterday while I was stopped and idling behind another Harley rider at a light I saw him look down at his bike trying to figure out why it didn't sound right. Yeah, that was me. It's funny every time it happens.
Anyway, I need this thing to pass state inspection soon and some of the motor mounts and the exhaust have broken because of the constant chugga, chugga of this poor engine.
No point in fixing those when they're just going to fail again in short order as long as that engine is rocking like a Harley.
My plan is to swap the head for a junkyard head (which can be had for less than $25 at the local Pick-n-Save during one of their 50% off sales) and use new head bolts and install a new timing chain while I'm at it.
Later I would like to do more but this should be enough to get it running on all 4 which is a prerequisite for fixing the mounts and exhaust.
I had tried last year to pull a head from a nice SW2 at the Pick-n-Save but had trouble getting everything loose. I feel like I was missing something since it just wouldn't budge.
I'll be sure to check ahead of time to know every bolt and bracket that must come off before I try again. I also have picked up some cordless impact tools which will help the process.
Any suggestions on the head pulling process?
Just for documentation purposes I do plan on using my compression tool to see what exactly is going on compression wise in the engine before I pull the head. There's a likelihood that even the highest cylinder has relatively low compression but maybe not. It'll help me plan future work on this car.
I will say now that I would much rather pull the engine and rebuild it but time and money won't allow that at this time.
In fact, my current plan is to just do the compression check and keep on driving it while I work on getting the Honda back on the road and the engine & transmission replaced in the van.
I will also be checking and posting the codes in case they become useful during this process.
When I had it for sale I wasn't worried about long term or passing inspection because I figured it would be gone before any of that became an issue.
However, since this Saturn and I appear to be stuck with each other (see my last post in the classified section for details) I guess I need to do some maintenance that I have been putting off.
Of the many things I will need to do is finally fix the miss that it developed a couple years ago when I let it run low on oil.
I have not done a compression test yet (I just bought the tool) it clearly has low compression on at least one cylinder just based on the sound of the starter when cranking.
At idle it runs as if it is only firing on 2 or 3 cylinders. Just yesterday while I was stopped and idling behind another Harley rider at a light I saw him look down at his bike trying to figure out why it didn't sound right. Yeah, that was me. It's funny every time it happens.
Anyway, I need this thing to pass state inspection soon and some of the motor mounts and the exhaust have broken because of the constant chugga, chugga of this poor engine.
No point in fixing those when they're just going to fail again in short order as long as that engine is rocking like a Harley.
My plan is to swap the head for a junkyard head (which can be had for less than $25 at the local Pick-n-Save during one of their 50% off sales) and use new head bolts and install a new timing chain while I'm at it.
Later I would like to do more but this should be enough to get it running on all 4 which is a prerequisite for fixing the mounts and exhaust.
I had tried last year to pull a head from a nice SW2 at the Pick-n-Save but had trouble getting everything loose. I feel like I was missing something since it just wouldn't budge.
I'll be sure to check ahead of time to know every bolt and bracket that must come off before I try again. I also have picked up some cordless impact tools which will help the process.
Any suggestions on the head pulling process?
Just for documentation purposes I do plan on using my compression tool to see what exactly is going on compression wise in the engine before I pull the head. There's a likelihood that even the highest cylinder has relatively low compression but maybe not. It'll help me plan future work on this car.
I will say now that I would much rather pull the engine and rebuild it but time and money won't allow that at this time.
In fact, my current plan is to just do the compression check and keep on driving it while I work on getting the Honda back on the road and the engine & transmission replaced in the van.
I will also be checking and posting the codes in case they become useful during this process.
#2
Jamnar,
Always nice to hear from you.
Be advised that your issues may go beyond burned exhaust valves in the head.
If you have issues with worn compression rings (adding capful of oil to cyl ups compression reading), stuck oil rings, etc., washed-out cylinders, you may be down in a hole you might not want to climb out of. DO the compression test (wet and dry) and post here before spending anything on parts. These engines tend to burn exhaust valves leading to 0 compression, though oil starvation may lead to ring and cyl wear. Once you know compression you can do leak down testing to pinpoint what you're up against across the board.
Don't know how much oil it burns now but if even if firing on all four, Jersey fails you for visible smoke even without a SES light.
Next time I drive east, maybe we can meet up for an exorcism and lunch.
Keep us posted.
Always nice to hear from you.
Be advised that your issues may go beyond burned exhaust valves in the head.
If you have issues with worn compression rings (adding capful of oil to cyl ups compression reading), stuck oil rings, etc., washed-out cylinders, you may be down in a hole you might not want to climb out of. DO the compression test (wet and dry) and post here before spending anything on parts. These engines tend to burn exhaust valves leading to 0 compression, though oil starvation may lead to ring and cyl wear. Once you know compression you can do leak down testing to pinpoint what you're up against across the board.
Don't know how much oil it burns now but if even if firing on all four, Jersey fails you for visible smoke even without a SES light.
Next time I drive east, maybe we can meet up for an exorcism and lunch.
Keep us posted.
#5
Thanks for the input Derf.
I expect that engine is quite tired and unfortunately I seem to be unable to go easy on it either.
Something else it does when idling in drive on a hot day is the oil light will come on. Goes off as soon as I get it up above idle but clearly things are getting pretty worn.
What I'm anticipating is actually working on this engine twice. The first time just to get it running on all 4 cylinders (better gas mileage, stop tearing apart the mounts and exhaust system).
The second time for an actual rebuild of the whole engine once I've got confirmation that the van will be reliable with the new engine and transmission (and things have slowed down a little with other life issues).
I'm depending on this engine to be true to it's bullet-proof reputation and not throw a rod in the mean time.
As far as the state inspection, we aren't as bad as New Jersey here in Virginia but the democrats running this state are working hard to make it even worse. They are trying to impose California style emission regulations here.
Considering that my newest vehicle is 21 years old that could create a problem with trying to get past inspections in the future.
One problem at a time.
I expect that engine is quite tired and unfortunately I seem to be unable to go easy on it either.
Something else it does when idling in drive on a hot day is the oil light will come on. Goes off as soon as I get it up above idle but clearly things are getting pretty worn.
What I'm anticipating is actually working on this engine twice. The first time just to get it running on all 4 cylinders (better gas mileage, stop tearing apart the mounts and exhaust system).
The second time for an actual rebuild of the whole engine once I've got confirmation that the van will be reliable with the new engine and transmission (and things have slowed down a little with other life issues).
I'm depending on this engine to be true to it's bullet-proof reputation and not throw a rod in the mean time.
As far as the state inspection, we aren't as bad as New Jersey here in Virginia but the democrats running this state are working hard to make it even worse. They are trying to impose California style emission regulations here.
Considering that my newest vehicle is 21 years old that could create a problem with trying to get past inspections in the future.
One problem at a time.
#6
Either the sender is bad or you truly do not have sufficient oil pressure. Maybe the pickup tube is clogged with muck or the oil pump itself is near done. I would not let that go much longer if you expect the bottom end to last.
#7
The sender does leak a little. I had forgotten about that until you mentioned it.
One thing that will help is once I get the Honda back on the road it'll be my daily driver and I can give the Saturn somewhat of a break.
At least that's the plan.
One thing that will help is once I get the Honda back on the road it'll be my daily driver and I can give the Saturn somewhat of a break.
At least that's the plan.
#8
So that WAS the plan.
The transmission in the van just bit the dust. Still have the Honda up on blocks so the Saturn is once again the only vehicle we have that's drive-able.
I haven't been able to work on any of the vehicles due to spending all my time cutting up trees and splitting wood so we can have heat this winter, working crazy hours at work (the holiday panic you know), dealing with my son getting covid and now my wife.
I'm seriously considering either paying someone else to work on my cars or taking January off from work so I can do it myself.
The transmission in the van just bit the dust. Still have the Honda up on blocks so the Saturn is once again the only vehicle we have that's drive-able.
I haven't been able to work on any of the vehicles due to spending all my time cutting up trees and splitting wood so we can have heat this winter, working crazy hours at work (the holiday panic you know), dealing with my son getting covid and now my wife.
I'm seriously considering either paying someone else to work on my cars or taking January off from work so I can do it myself.
#10
Ship dd to your place and have him use your tools...just make him fly united basic economy, where the game is guessing what brand of deodorant the person shoved up against you is wearing. Women may slap you but maybe that's what you need