So I can't drive my car right now. I went and bought a code reader and I am not sure what I am look at but one code that pops up is PO340 now it also shows 01/01 on the side and O C E EV are flashing, then PO300 comes up with 02/02 on the side and all 3 of the same letters are flashing again, then PO300 comes up again but with 01/02 on the side and again all 3 letters are flashing.

I keep pushing the button and it continues to show the PO300.


Please let me know if I should try reading it again.

Thanks so much for your help!!!

I've replaced a couple starters before but nothing to over the top. I would like to try and work on this myself if it is not to difficult.

Thank you,
Rebecca

 

For starters, you need to go to this web site in order to understand the codes.

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/

 

And read my long post on this thread, it pertains to you.

https://www.saturnforum.com/forum/saturn-s-series-sedan-27/three-codes-what-do-9617/

 

As for the flashing letters, those represent tests that the computer runs that have failed. This is how the codes got detected.

The 01/02 and 02/02, these indicate the number of times the code is currently stored in the memory. A code will only be stored two times. Most codes are class B codes that required two detections in order to be stored. The 01/02 occurrence is known as a pending code and you may have seen a Pd on the screen. This occurrence does not turn on the Check Engine Light (MIL). The 02/02 turns on the MIL.

If you have read my links, then by now you know you have a misfire. The misfire is probably the source of the P0340 so I would not worry about that for now. Most likely you need new sparkplugs. The sparkplug wires are pretty robust and are good for 300k miles or more. The coils are pretty tough too.

 

Strange I posted codes but don't see my last post via cell phone.

The codes I found first time were po3400 and po300. I

I saw a small hose had come off at the valve cover after putting it back on I'm now getting code po300 only. I'm going replace spark plugs and looks like possible valve cover gasket leak so I'll replace that too.

Anything else think I should do?

Thank you

 

Thanks so much Keith!!! Your post just came up on my cell.

Totally appreciate you're time! I will read everything!

Thank you!

 

Your welcome. Hope it helps.

 

Hi so I changed the valve head gasket and used iridium spark plugs. I was told I didn't have to gap them but I checked the gap before I was told that and most of the gaps seemed to be around .045 when the car needs .040

My awesome Saturn runs better now than before but as I was going up a hill on my way home she sputters twice loses power a bit, but then she picks it right back up before she lost it fully.

Should I get the proper gaped spark plugs, does the gap matter mucho? Or maybe change out the spark wires? What else could be the issue?

Thanks for your help!
Rebecca

 

Since you used iridium plugs, the gap can be wider. The iridium plugs have a finer point on the cathode (center conductor) so it makes a more intense corona and fires at a lower voltage. The wider gap actually helps the coil develop a higher output spark.

With copper or iron core plugs, the gap erodes over time. You start at .040 and over the 30k miles they are in there, the gap will grow to .055 to .060 before they start misfiring. The gap in the iridium plugs will not grow over the 100-120k miles that they can stay in there.

You do not want to re-gap an iridium plug unless you are really experienced. The tip of an iridium plug is very brittle and can fracture very easily. I don't even recommend that you check the gap because you can fracture the tip doing this.

It could be a wire issue but under the driving conditions you describe, I tend to think that the problem is in fuel delivery. You may have a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump. This type of failure shows up under the heaviest loads and higher RPMs.

You will need to find a mechanic that can do a fuel flow and fuel pressure test on the fuel pump. This is not the kind of equipment that DYIers keep lying around so you will need a good shop to perform this test.

I kinda lean toward the fuel filter rather than the pump, unless someone in the past made a habit of running out of gas. Running out of gas causes the pump to overheat. A tank of bad gas could clog the filter.

I don't have my service manuals anymore so I don't know how hard changing the fuel filter is, but if it is external to the fuel tank and easy to replace, it might be cheaper to replace the filter than getting the pressure and flow tests.

You can rent a pressure tester form most autoparts stores. Usually you just leave a deposit, use it and when you return it, you get your deposit back so it costs you nothing. If you can safely remove the fuel line and point it into a gas can, you can turn on the ignition to the run position and pump a gallon of gas into the tank and measure the time to get an idea of the flow rate. I don't happen to know the specs though.

Be careful not to have a fire though. Have a fire extinguisher handy of you try this. Maybe someone will chime in with the specs.

If the pressure is good but the flow is low, that is the filter. If the pressure is too low, then it is the pump.

You could also have a clogged fuel injector so a can of fuel system cleaner (Techron is the best) might be a cheap fix, try that first.

 

Thanks so much! I got cleaner see what happens.

Appreciate your words truly!

Rebecca