Ok. Hi guys I can't really figure out what the exact problem is but it will start and drive but once you shut it off, you'll have to wait a while for it to start again. I just replaced the water pump and throttle positioning sensor. And also when it does start up, you'll need to keep your feet on gas so it doesn't die... Any idea? Thanks

 

Yep --> Replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS) and it's associated electrical connector. It is a two-wire sensor, located on the driver's side of the engine, very close to where the upper radiator hose is located. Use teflon tape on the threads of the new sensor, and be careful about over-torquing. Make sure the replacement sensor has a brass/metal tip, and not a resin tip. Get the parts from a local GM dealership, as the after-market parts don't last.

Total cost for the parts should be around $40 usd, and your time to repair should be less than an hour. Good luck ....

 

Thank you very much OceanArcher. I'll go work on it right away. I'll give you feedback after everything. Once again, thank you.


I read here that "1992 through 1998 L24 Cylinder heads developed issues with cracks developing in the fifth camshaft journal, located closest to #4 cylinder. The hairline crack would develop between the oil feed port of that journal and the coolant passages in the cylinder head. Symptoms would range from overheating to to low coolant, however, most cars affected by this issue exhibited oil migration into the cooling system. The resulting mixture of the two fluids would result in a thick brown "milkshake"-like mixture, visible in the coolant overflow tank." so I hope that is not really the problem. I appreciate your help.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturn_...SOHC_LK0.2FL24

 

Well - that has been a problem with some engines in the past, but your original posting did not reference 'low-coolant' light, nor did it reference 'chocolate milkshake' coolant ... did you forget to tell us something ??

 

?? Huh??

 

My friends didn't get off work till late. So I just went ahead and did a radiator flush and a oil change till I'll get the ECTS tomorrow.

Well, yea I didn't tell some stuffs which is about the coolant and the engine oil; Firstly, when you put a gallon of coolant it lasts for about a week or so which is weird and there is no leak as far as I know.

Also, I always fill up the oil every other day. The car consumes it faster than I can put there. Again, I can't tell what part of the car makes it uses a lot of oil that fast.

To simplify this, I took pictures of the engine so you guys can see and spot any irregularities. Hope it helps...(Please if you need to make any reference to any picture, just go by "picture 1", "picture 2" etc)...Thank you.

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/3581/imag0069k.jpg
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P/s

Do any of you think the IAC has problem before I change that too?

 

First off - very nice clear pictures of the engine bay, and the close-ups are outstanding.

Second -- is your car a "smoker" ? Does it kill mosquitoes when you drive down the road? Run your finger around the inside of the tail pipe -- wet, or dry?

When you park your car, is it "housebroken", or does it leave a stain everywhere you park?

When the engine is running, do you get a "sweet smell" out of the tailpipe?

If you have a compression gauge - run a compression test, and post the results....

 

Ok, so I just got to the ECTS about an hour ago and found out that the female connector is corroded. I called around at the local auto parts here but none of them seems to carry it except the dealership who said its 30 bucks.

Can I just go get one at a junk yard or buy an electrical cleaner for 5 bucks and clean it with? How sensitive are this sensors?

 

Yes, it does smoke when you keep your foot on gas to keep it running but hopefully if I get this ECTS fixed it'll stop. Speaking about the inside of the tail pipe, I wish it was probably wet or dry but instead I got a build-up of black finely smooth powder all over it.

The cool thing about it is "it doesn't leave any stain. You wont find any leak on the floor or anything" At least, for now. If it does then I'd be more screwed.

When the engine is running, you get that smell of smoke coming out from the exhaust.

Lastly, I don't have a compression gauge but, I'll try to find out how to do the test and post results.


Thanks

 

Change both the sensor AND the connector -- corroded connections will cause the whole thing to fail. They a little high on the sensor (should be about $20usd), but ya got to work with what you can get. Personally, I would not use a sensor from a U-Pull-It place