SL2 engine experts needed - rebuilding my engine
#1
SL2 engine experts needed - rebuilding my engine
Hello all. I have a 91 SL2 5-speed with 191K miles on it. It was burning about 1 quart of oil every 100 miles. Yes, 100 not 1000. So I decided to pull the engine to check it out and see how bad it is inside.
Suprisingly, it was a lot better than I thought. The cylinder walls have very little wear and the cross hatching is still there. The crank, rod bearings, rods, and pistons showed very little wear. The exhaust valves and seats need work, but the intake valves and seats are very clean.
I am going to clean up the head, replace the valve seals (and clean up the seats), hone the cylinders and replace the rings and timing chain and all the timing chain guides.
My question lies in the piston rings. The oil rings were in bad shape and were recessed and frozen into the pistons. I wanted to know if there is a type or brand of rings I should use. I would like to stop the oil burning, and I have heard that the stock rings were crap. So what should I use in their place?
Thanks
Suprisingly, it was a lot better than I thought. The cylinder walls have very little wear and the cross hatching is still there. The crank, rod bearings, rods, and pistons showed very little wear. The exhaust valves and seats need work, but the intake valves and seats are very clean.
I am going to clean up the head, replace the valve seals (and clean up the seats), hone the cylinders and replace the rings and timing chain and all the timing chain guides.
My question lies in the piston rings. The oil rings were in bad shape and were recessed and frozen into the pistons. I wanted to know if there is a type or brand of rings I should use. I would like to stop the oil burning, and I have heard that the stock rings were crap. So what should I use in their place?
Thanks
#2
A 91 that runs? Wow.. haven't seen a post for a 91 in quite some time....congrats.....
others have drilled holes in the pistons behind the oil control rings to create a path for oil to get out of that channel to reduce the varnish/buildup problem on the oil control rings.......
Be sure to also replace the valve guide seals, as they are known to pass oil....eventually......
others have drilled holes in the pistons behind the oil control rings to create a path for oil to get out of that channel to reduce the varnish/buildup problem on the oil control rings.......
Be sure to also replace the valve guide seals, as they are known to pass oil....eventually......
#3
Yea that thing still ran perfect. I was starting to get the check engine light for O2 sensor and EGR valve, but I suspect they are clogged with oil. It still ran smooth and dosent give me any running problems. And it still gets 32-34 MPG!!! The interior is in very good shape, and all I replaced with the drivers seat back. Of couse the carpet got pretty dirty over the years. The exterior is very nice. I wet sanded and buffed it when I got it and replaced the rear quater and trunk lid. It has a few scratches, but not bad at all. I want to keep it running as long as possible. My mom bought it brand new then sold it to my little brother in 97. I bought it off him about 4 years ago and had to do a bunch of mechanical work to it to get it back on the road.
I was planning on re-working the heads, including the valve guide seals.
I noticed that on the pistons, below the oil seals they are grooved. Do you mean drill holes in the groove toward the inside of the piston?
I was planning on re-working the heads, including the valve guide seals.
I noticed that on the pistons, below the oil seals they are grooved. Do you mean drill holes in the groove toward the inside of the piston?
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