Valve Body update
#1
Valve Body update
Got down to the valve body again after changing it out with a Rockauto remanufactured valve body. Recall, horrible shifting after the new one. I tested the Rockauto solenoids. 3 of them were under 2. Junk Rockauto. So, I switched those 3 out with good solenoids from my old one. Went for a test drive and it shifted pretty good after a few miles. Major improvement. However, here's what I am seeing now...
1) In Drive, with the brake on, I am hearing a buzzing sound. Put it in Park and no buzzing sound.
2) Shifts pretty good in a straight line. Mostly smooth. Feels underpowered, though, to how it normally felt. ( i put 30 miles on it)
3) Slowing down to turn on a roundabout, then accelerating, very hard jerk shift on the turn in both 2nd and 3rd. Dead stop in a straight line and go...no hard shifting.
The shaft nut? Think that's the issue? I have parts coming to do the shaft nut this coming weekend.
1) In Drive, with the brake on, I am hearing a buzzing sound. Put it in Park and no buzzing sound.
2) Shifts pretty good in a straight line. Mostly smooth. Feels underpowered, though, to how it normally felt. ( i put 30 miles on it)
3) Slowing down to turn on a roundabout, then accelerating, very hard jerk shift on the turn in both 2nd and 3rd. Dead stop in a straight line and go...no hard shifting.
The shaft nut? Think that's the issue? I have parts coming to do the shaft nut this coming weekend.
#2
I would return the entire valve body purchased through RockAuto with the feedback that it was a substandard product. Playing mix and match was probably not the best idea if you cannot find a combination that works. If the people are capable of rebuilding solenoids that measure 2 ohms, why would you trust the ones that don't to actually function properly?
There are reputable people on eBay that rebuild these themselves and sell them. Unfortunately I do not know their eBay usernames but you may wish to go over to Saturnfans.com and see who people are currently buying them from.
just stumbled across this great thread that explains the valve body and input shaft nut loosening relationship. It's a bit far down in the thread. I do believe it will help. Meaning I believe if yours is slamming into every year, the input shaft nut is likely to be loose
https://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=200105
There are reputable people on eBay that rebuild these themselves and sell them. Unfortunately I do not know their eBay usernames but you may wish to go over to Saturnfans.com and see who people are currently buying them from.
just stumbled across this great thread that explains the valve body and input shaft nut loosening relationship. It's a bit far down in the thread. I do believe it will help. Meaning I believe if yours is slamming into every year, the input shaft nut is likely to be loose
https://www.saturnfans.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=200105
#5
I'd love to. I don't have the skills to do it. The cost to have someone else do it is too much, too. I might as well go get another car. I need to save every dime I can. I just graduated and just finally landed an internship that doesn't pay all that much. Whatever I can do myself, and doesn't cost fortunes, I'll try that first.
#6
Hey, I'm doing my first engine swap next weekend. It's actually a double engine swap between two sc2s. All directions from YouTube from a guy named Richpin and a guy named lowSaturn who is severely knowledgeable on the subject.
I can't pull a motor in an hour like he claims, but I can make it take four days.
Sometimes you just have to go for it. I have the luxury of having an additional vehicle which I sense you do not.
The only way you up your game is to dive in at your own pace. Once you're in, dive deeper
I can't pull a motor in an hour like he claims, but I can make it take four days.
Sometimes you just have to go for it. I have the luxury of having an additional vehicle which I sense you do not.
The only way you up your game is to dive in at your own pace. Once you're in, dive deeper
#7
The shaft nut wasn't it
Tried this shaft nut procedure this weekend. The nut seemed fine. I ensured it was tightened to 111 ft lbs. Put it all back and took it for a ride. Shifts are bad. As soon as it warms up a bit it starts shifting hard...but not all the time. Intermittent on the shift jerk issue. Mostly no better, though. Took it in to a repair shop close by today. Time for a mechanic to look at it. It's starting to be a money pit. It needs new struts, needs a new exhaust(or repaired exhaust), needs a/c compressor, etc. We'll see what the mechanic says then I'll make a decision after that. Still uncertain about that valve body from Rock Auto. Maybe a bad one.
#8
Rockauto usually is pretty good about swapping defective parts. You should have done that first. Since you swapped solenoids into it from your old valve body, they may not take it back and swap it for you. It sure sounds like you got a defective one to me. BUT, I'm NOT a mechanic and have never made a living either posing or working as one.
#9
Send back the solenoids that were part of the valve body they sent. As in return exactly what was sent.
Include the resistance readings for each one and they will realize it is defective.
You might go over to saturnfans.com and ask who on eBay is selling quality valve bodies for the taat s car transmissions.
Include the resistance readings for each one and they will realize it is defective.
You might go over to saturnfans.com and ask who on eBay is selling quality valve bodies for the taat s car transmissions.
#10
Got the results back from the auto repair shop. The damage...2400. He said the transmission is shot. Used transmission with 85K miles on it, one bad motor mount replaced, an alignment, and two struts. He said when it goes in reverse it clunks and the engine moves about 1.5 inches. Got the thumbs up from my dad. Works out better than spending for a newer car.