Have had a lot of issues with this one first it would start but only in limp mode so found out it was the computer. Had to have a dealer flash the comp to the vehicle which cost 50 bucks. Once it was flashed it was still in limp mode and they found out there was a short on the bottom of the fuse panel finally that got it out of limp mode but they said there was also a low voltage issue they thought the battery was drained a little bit so we brought it home charged it up and it ran fine for 40 miles then it was dead so we put a new alternator in and are still having the same problems I am going to see if there is a fuse able link in there that has popped cause voltage is not reaching battery coming off back of alt at 14.4 if anyone knows any secrets please let me know thanks.

 

Take the battery to a parts store and have them load test it. I'll bet you have a dead cell or two in it.

 

Moved to Vue section as it is a Vue question.

The alternator supplies operating current for everything while the engine is running -- unless its output goes down below battery voltage -- at that point, the car is operating off the battery until there is no longer sufficient charge in the battery to provide the operating current at the required voltage to thr PCM -- and then the car just stops.

So you supposedly had a PCM issue, it was reflashed and did NOTTA?
I think that was a stab in the dark by someone throwing your money at an unknown problem -- or it's a "trick" that fixes the condition but no one knows why.

"Shorts" under the fuse box blow fuses. "Crossed circuits" screw up operation of things but do not necessarily blow fuses. I believe your case is the latter.

So now it is out of limp mode.

If they stated a low voltage condition, I too would suspect the alternator (for reasons described earlier)

Have you checked the ALT fuse?
Have you cleaned both battery terminals AND the cable ends?
Have you ensured that the other end of the neg batt terminal has a clean solid connection to the frame?
Are you sure the correct alternator was put in?
Is the cable end coming off the alternator clean and corrosion free?
What is the output V at the alternator vs CHASSIS ground (Not V across battery. They should be the same.
What is the V across the battery with car running?
What is V acr batt 5 min after you shut off engine?

There will be an inline fuseable link ---it is usually put between the alt ouput cable and the fusebox. The battery + cable connects at the same spot as the alternator output does, so I guess you could say it's also between the batt and alt. Whatever. Same difference.

I would do as Rube said: pull the battery and get it load tested for free at Autozone or similar

Before doing so, With the car OFF:
find the 12V input to the fuse box (where the alt input enters)and measure its V vs chassis ground.
You should get a little bit less than battery V ( go and check)
With hands and tools clear, start the car and make the same measurements.

If the fuseable link is blown, the current from the alternator will not be reaching the fuse box OR the battery -- and you should just be reading the same V's as you did when the car was off.

If the fuseable link is NOT blown, you will likely be getting a 14.4 ish V reading at battery, maybe a tiny bit below where V goes into fuse box

Then the question becomes how much current is your alternator generating AND/OR how much of the current generated is getting to where it is supposed to go.

Once you have determined if the fuseable link is intact, remedy if necessary Put a tested, known good battery in the car. I'm with Rube --I'm guessing the one you have has been too badly abused to come back. But that's why you test them.

You have two choices for testing the alt ---pull and have it bench tested at Autozone or similar for free, or try to drive to the nearest Advance/Autozone etc and have them do a load test on the entire charging system.

That's my four cents for now pending further results