brakes drag after 20 minutes of stop n go.
#2
changed pads all around?
which were worn prematurely?
were they worn evenly?
If not I'd suspect a caliper hanging up. The pad wear should show you where.
Actually. is that a 4 wheel disc or a front disc/rear drum vehicle? Too early in the morning for me to look that up.
which were worn prematurely?
were they worn evenly?
If not I'd suspect a caliper hanging up. The pad wear should show you where.
Actually. is that a 4 wheel disc or a front disc/rear drum vehicle? Too early in the morning for me to look that up.
#3
When you say you changed the front brake lines, are you referring to the actual metal lines? If so, you may want to replace the rubber brake hoses. They wear out from the inside and are likely to collapse and hold pressure on the calipers and pads. If you've replaced the rubber hoses, then you may want to check the rear ones for failure. They will usually have a soft spot in them that you can find by squeezing them from one end to the other. If that all checks out, you may have a defective caliper or proportioning valve. It's rare for a proportioning valve to go bad, though.
#4
Woah. I wasn't expecting responses so quick. Thanks guys. Here's the details.
All disk breaks. Abs. System. I threw in a master Cylinder due to it leaking inside the brake booster. About 8 months later I started to get a hard pedal feeling once in a while. I changed the front pads because it needed it. They were about 15% on both sides. Not uneven. Brake pedal issue calmed down and I was happy thinking something in the brake job fixed it. 3 weeks later, intermittent hard pedal sensation came back. I figured, has to be collapsing brake lines. Next time the problem came up. I put a lazer thermometer on the rims and noticed ps wheel was hotter. Took the wheel of and sure enough the wheel was dragging. So I changed only that side brake flex hose.not the metal. Bleed bith front wheel just in case with 1 quart of brake fluid.Drove the car yesterday and the problem still there. Here is the kicker that most like give away the culprit. If I shut the engine off and pump the brake till they feel rock hard, then start the engine, the brake goes back to normal and the car rolls with the slightest push by hand. So that unfreezez what ever is causing it. And here is the other kicker, I can feel the brakes dragging due to the pedal feels slightly harder. They never feeeze up completely, just drag a bit. But anyways. .. When this issue happens, a few times while im at a red light I fell the pedal suddenly drop from the hard padel sensation to a normal sansation as im letting go of the brakes the creep up closer to anticipating the green light. Then the cars brakes is perfectly fine. A few minutes later, I start to feel the brake pedal getting stiff again. Hahaha! Driving me nuts.
Run down on clues.
Shutting engine off and pumping pedal unfreeze the drag.
Intermittently fixes is self as I drive. I can feel it on the pedal and putting the car in neutral the car will move very easy to the slightest inclination.
All disk breaks. Abs. System. I threw in a master Cylinder due to it leaking inside the brake booster. About 8 months later I started to get a hard pedal feeling once in a while. I changed the front pads because it needed it. They were about 15% on both sides. Not uneven. Brake pedal issue calmed down and I was happy thinking something in the brake job fixed it. 3 weeks later, intermittent hard pedal sensation came back. I figured, has to be collapsing brake lines. Next time the problem came up. I put a lazer thermometer on the rims and noticed ps wheel was hotter. Took the wheel of and sure enough the wheel was dragging. So I changed only that side brake flex hose.not the metal. Bleed bith front wheel just in case with 1 quart of brake fluid.Drove the car yesterday and the problem still there. Here is the kicker that most like give away the culprit. If I shut the engine off and pump the brake till they feel rock hard, then start the engine, the brake goes back to normal and the car rolls with the slightest push by hand. So that unfreezez what ever is causing it. And here is the other kicker, I can feel the brakes dragging due to the pedal feels slightly harder. They never feeeze up completely, just drag a bit. But anyways. .. When this issue happens, a few times while im at a red light I fell the pedal suddenly drop from the hard padel sensation to a normal sansation as im letting go of the brakes the creep up closer to anticipating the green light. Then the cars brakes is perfectly fine. A few minutes later, I start to feel the brake pedal getting stiff again. Hahaha! Driving me nuts.
Run down on clues.
Shutting engine off and pumping pedal unfreeze the drag.
Intermittently fixes is self as I drive. I can feel it on the pedal and putting the car in neutral the car will move very easy to the slightest inclination.
#5
I'm doing a test drove now to see how long of stop and go driving in the city will it take to have the padel start feeling stiff. Also. .. on a abs system, is the proportioning valve inside the abs unit? And I have been told to check the booster check valve. The booster has 2 things. Brake master unit and a 1 inch thick hose. Would the valve be at the booster side or the the other end?
#6
Guys, found this. Corvette guy had the exact same thing to the tee. He resolved it by adjusting the brake switch travel to the pedal in quick he did replace a while back. . In my case I haven't touched the brake switch. All I've done is replace the MC. But I don't recall the being any adjustment needed for the rod. I just threw it in. And it worked fine for months before this problem began.
forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3121928-front-brake-pads-drag.html
forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3121928-front-brake-pads-drag.html
Last edited by 2008vueXE; 02-02-2013 at 11:09 AM.
#8
Drove it for 1 hour. Problem didn't Po up this time. I checked the booster check valve. It's connected to the booster side I noticed. Issue is. .. I didn't know how to check it. It did hiss very well when I removed it so the booster is working. Can you blow or sick on the valve to determine if it's bad?
#9
I'm mechanicaly knowledged guys, but this one has me puzzled. I will wait to see what you guys think. Thanks for the input. I'm still driving it after checking the brake switch and unplugging the booster hose. cleaned the boostervalve grommet. Checked the boater hose for cracks. Everything looks good. Now that I want to problem to come up, it's not happening. I wanted to see if it's only the ps wheel that's sticks or both.i know for a fact the front ps wheel was dragging.
Last edited by 2008vueXE; 02-02-2013 at 12:55 PM.
#10
The temp on the ps wheel indicates what derf said. You have a caliper that's sticking. Replace that thing and happy motoring. You seem to be willing to try different things and that's great, but you're just doing extra work that a simple caliper change would most likely take care of.